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Perhaps Burns’s most famous song, these lines are sung across the world on Hogmanay. However, this is not Burns’s original work. It was one of the traditional ballads he heard as he travelled around Scotland, and he wrote it down (with the music) in 1788. Burns reworked the piece (quite how much is unknown) and sent it to George Thomson in 1793 to be published in A Select Collection of Original Scotish Airs for the Voice. In a letter to Thomson, Burns described ‘the old song of the olden times, & which has never been in print, nor even in manuscript, untill I took it down from an old man’s singing.’ An earlier version of the song also appeared in Jame Johnson’s Scots Musical Museum.

One of Burns’s greatest legacies (in addition to his own works) was this transcription of hundreds of traditional ballads, which may otherwise have been lost. Auld lang syne roughly translates as ‘for old time’s sake’, a fitting song to be sung at the end of the year and other big occasions such as Scottish ceilidhs, weddings and, of course, Burns Suppers. It has become traditional in Scotland to hold hands in a large circle for the first five verses and then, at the end of the fifth verse, singers cross their arms (still holding their neighbours’ hands!) and run into the middle of the circle.

Auld lang syne

Should auld acquaintance be forgot,

And never brought to mind?

Should auld acquaintance be forgot,

And auld lang syne?

Chorus:

For auld lang syne, my dear,

For auld lang syne.

We’ll tak a cup o’ kindness yet,

For auld lang syne!

And surely ye’ll be your pint-stowp!

And surely I’ll be mine,

And we’ll tak a cup o’ kindness yet,

For auld lang syne!

Chorus

We twa hae run about the braes,

And pou’d the gowans fine;

But we’ve wander’d mony a weary fit,

Sin’ auld lang syne.

Chorus

We twa hae paidl’d in the burn,

Frae morning sun till dine;

But seas between us braid hae roar’d

Sin’ auld lang syne.

Chorus

And there’s a hand, my trusty fere!

And gie’s a hand o’ thine!

And we’ll tak a right gude-willie waught,

For auld lang syne.

Chorus

Handy glossary: pint-stowp = tankard of ale; pou’d = pulled; gowans = daisies; braid = broad; fere = companion; gude-willie waught = good hearty swig.

Text and image courtesy of the National Trust for Scotland. For more information on the Trust or to help them protect Scotland’s heritage see: www.nts.org.uk

Main photo: A section of Burns’s handwritten manuscript for Auld lang syne.

An exciting new 250 mile on-road cycle route covering the length of the South of Scotland has received the green light to progress to delivery stage. The Coast to Coast route will run from Stranraer to Eyemouth, making it one of the longest in the UK and a new challenge for experienced cyclists. Walking and cycling routes can deliver significant economic, environmental and community benefits, and early projections are that the new South of Scotland Coast to Coast route could attract up to 175,000 new visitors to the region, with a direct spend of £13.7million per year.  

The project is aiming to be delivered in time for the 2023 UCI World Championships in Glasgow and across Scotland. Three of the 13 Championships are taking place in the South of Scotland in August next year, allowing visitors to the South to try the new route during or after the Championships. Riders who want to test themselves can tackle the Coast to Coast Challenge route over four days but are highly recommended to slow down, immerse themselves and enjoy more of what the South of Scotland has to offer by completing the Explorer route over eight days or more. The Coast to Coast announcement follows the launch of the first ever South of Scotland Cycling Partnership Strategy in September, which aims to ensure cycling becomes the most popular choice for shorter, everyday journeys by 2032. The Strategy also has a vision for the region to be recognised as Scotland’s leading cycling destination and a world-class cycling destination of excellence.

Home of the bike

Councillor Scott Hamilton, Scottish Borders Council’s Executive Member for Community and Business Development, said: “The development of this route could deliver very significant benefits to communities all the way from Eyemouth to Stranraer and we continue to work closely with the partners involved to bring it to fruition. It is through initiatives such as this that we can really build upon the region’s cycling heritage and already significant reputation for cycling and truly make the South of Scotland the ‘Home of the Bike’.”

Tourism Minister Ivan McKee added: “The South of Scotland is already recognised as a destination that offers a wide range of experiences and activities for visitors including walking and cycling. The creation of the Coast to Coast cycling route will support the Scottish Government’s ambition of delivering economic, environmental and community benefits to our regions through sustainable tourism. The route is part of the momentum building towards the 2023 UCI Cycling World Championships in August, which is bringing three of the 13 Championships to the South of Scotland and encouraging participation in cycling across the region.”

Words and images by: David McVey

I grew up in Kirkintilloch. Until the 1980s the town had a two-hourly bus service to Strathblane. In half-an-hour it swept us from our declining post-industrial hometown, westwards along the wooded lower slopes of the Campsie Fells, to a prosperous rural village squeezed between two hill ranges. To the west were the Kilpatricks, to the east, perhaps the most impressive face of the Campsies. In every direction there was promise for outdoor enthusiasts. I was a regular on the Strathblane bus. It was my escape to adventure.

In 1933, the prolific travel writer Ian C Lees wrote that ‘The rich valley of the Blane… is the finest place for trampers within easy reach of Glasgow.’  It was true then; it was true in the 1980s and it is true now. And I wish we still used the word ‘tramper’. Today, though, it is perhaps easier to find peace and quiet there than in the 1930s, as the real enthusiasts hurtle north in their cars to Glencoe, the Trossachs or Arrochar.

A word about names. Blanefield (the ultimate destination of that bus from Kirkintilloch) and Strathblane are conjoined villages that straddle the A81 between Aberfoyle and Glasgow. Strathblane is the village; the valley is Strath Blane, drained by the Blane Water, a river that finally runs via the Endrick into Loch Lomond.

An outdoor paradise

At the heart of Strathblane, where the A891 joins the A81, is the Kirkhouse Inn. It is said to date from the 17^th century and happily has survived Covid. When the Kirkhouse was new, Strathblane, protected by a belt of high ground to the south, must have felt especially remote. However, in the 1860s the arrival of the railway brought the village into the Glasgow commuter belt.  Owing to that high ground to the south, the trains arrived circuitously, via Kirkintilloch and Lennoxtown, and the line eventually extended to Balfron and Aberfoyle. The railway lost its passenger service in 1951 and was closed completely in 1959 (our bus from Kirkintilloch, now also gone, originated as its partial replacement). But, as we will see, it’s still an important travel route today.

Just north of Strathblane/Blanefield is Duntreath Castle, the home of the Edmonstone family who remain significant landowners here. The castle is private though its gardens are sometimes open to the public. In 1909 crowds flocked to Blanefield Station when King Edward VII arrived there for a visit to Duntreath. He was greeted by Sir Archibald Edmonstone of Duntreath and the Duke of Montrose. Crowds also turned out to see the King when he attended Strathblane Parish Church on the Sunday. Edward had visited Duntreath before, when he was Prince of Wales. There’s speculation that he may have made other, more clandestine visits; Mrs Alice Keppel, with whom he had a long affair, was Sir Archibald’s sister. Duntreath had its own small railway siding, and it has been suggested that Edward travelled on ordinary service trains and had them stop here so that he could make secret visits to Mrs Keppel at her birthplace. I am sceptical about this; the king, travelling on a humble local train that stops unexpectedly in the middle of nowhere so that he can hurry away? That would surely attract attention, not avoid it?

Nowadays the trackbed of the railway east of the village is a walking and cycle path that runs all the way to Kirkintilloch while the West Highland Way also follows the railway north-west through Strath Blane. The John Muir Way uses the path from Kirkintilloch to Strathblane and then climbs up to Mugdock before continuing through the Kilpatrick Hills. These routes all help to make Strathblane an outdoor paradise. Mugdock is also home to a much-loved country park. And then there’s The Pipe Track.

Feels remote, even though it is not

The Pipe Track begins as a quiet suburban drive, climbing steeply from Strathblane’s War Memorial. A couple of hours on the track, with spectacular views ahead to the hills around Loch Lomond, will take you to the village of Killearn, from where you can take a bus back to Strathblane. But on the walk you will notice some odd stone towers and bridges. These are associated with the Loch Katrine Aqueduct which takes sweet fresh water from the Trossachs to reservoirs at Milngavie. This astonishing civil engineering project was carried out in the 1850s with the intention of providing Glasgow with clean water. Today, with an extension dating from the 1870s, it still does. The Pipe Track was originally a service road for the building of the aqueduct.

The farm of Blairquhosh, just beyond Blanefield, was famous in the early days of Scottish tourism for its Muckle Tree – sadly no longer with us except as a sad roadside stump. Further on is a current tourist draw, the Glengoyne Distillery, famous for its single malts. It is a picturesque facility with the peak of Dumgoyne towering above. Many visitors must think they are in the Highlands. The B10 bus serves Glengoyne from Glasgow and Strathblane and you can walk there using either the West Highland Way or the Pipe Track.

Returning to Strathblane’s War Memorial, just across the road are some rows of cottages that were built for people who worked in a massive now vanished calico works that once dominated the area. In 1941, during the Second World War, two landmines fell on the village. The Clydeside Blitz was raging, and it is probable that the German bombers were simply shedding their loads before heading for home. One of the landmines landed just across the road from the war memorial and destroyed a block called ‘Sunnyside’. Four people were killed, including a mother and her two children who had been evacuated from Clydebank to avoid air raids. A plaque near the parish church commemorates the tragedy.

The Campsies are the dominating feature of Strathblane, with the pointy green alp of Dumgoyne and the mighty crags of Slackdhu. If Slackdhu seems familiar, it may be because you are a Monty Python fan. They stood in for South Africa in the Zulu sequence of Monty Python’s Meaning of Life. You would not ever really mistake Strathblane for the veldt. Yet it feels remote, even though it is not.

Hear, hear the plains are calling! The inaugural Hayland Gathering is being held on Saturday 11^th March 2023 in the rural town of Hay, NSW. Commencing with a street march followed by the official opening, the Hayland Gathering will host the Riverina Scottish Highland Dancing Titles, Highland Muscle Heavy Event competition, Pipe Band displays and masses bands, Clan Tents, stalls, athletics events including the kilted dash, children’s entertainment, finishing with a Ceilidh and fireworks.

It is the first highland gathering to be held in the town, ironically the flattest place in Australia, and the committee is looking forward to the Scottish community gathering in Hay. The Hayland Gathering is pleased to promote a special performance at the gathering and ceilidh by one of the world’s leading junior Highland dancers, 17 year old Morven Johnston from Perth, WA. Morven was born in the small weaving village of Kilbarchan in the West of Scotland and immigrated to Perth, Western Australia in 2010 at the age of 4. She has been involved in Highland dancing from the early age of 3 and has been dancing at the Scottish Highland Dance Academy, under the watchful eye of her teacher Kerry Grosser, since she first arrived in Australia.

Throughout her dancing career Morven has won over 80 plus State, Interstate and National championships within Australia including multiple International, Grand Australasian and Australian Commonwealth Championships together with the Junior Champion of Champions.  She has also regularly competed at the highest level on the international stage, notably winning 4 Scottish Championships at Cowal together with a 6^th in 2018 at age 13 and a 3rd in 2019 at 14 in the Juvenile World Championship final.

Highland dancing

Unfortunately, covid stopped Morven, like many other dancers around the world, from finishing their final years in their world age groups. Although not known at the time, no one would return to Cowal until 2022. Having previously won a USIR (USA) open championship, Morven was honoured to win the 17 years Canadian open championship in 2022. All great achievements from a place as remote as Western Australia.

Excited to finally be back in Scotland, Morven started her 2022 campaign with a win in the Bute Championship in Rothesay, followed by a win in the Commonwealth Championship in Stirling the following week, a win in her Junior World final heat and then finishing with runner up in the Junior World Final at Cowal on the Saturday. All capping off a great year of doing what she loves “highland dancing”. In parallel to her dancing, Morven has continued to develop a strong connection with her Scottish heritage by learning to play the bagpipes throughout her school career, becoming the Pipe Corporal in her final year. Morven is currently finishing her last year of school at PLC in Perth, WA.

Whilst continuing to actively compete at the highest level of competition across the globe, Morven is also keen to focus on obtaining her teaching qualification and be ready to help SHDA develop the next generation of highland dancers in Western Australia. The Hayland Gathering is delighted to have Morven join us to share her love of dance.

More information on the Hayland Gathering can be gained by following the Facebook page, emailing [email protected] or contacting the Hayland Gathering convenor Kylie Kerr on 0417 052 491.

Main photo: Highland dancer Morven Johnston.

A team of scientists, led by the University of Bristol, has uncovered intriguing new insights into the diet of people living in Neolithic Britain and found evidence that cereals, including wheat, were cooked in pots. Using chemical analysis of ancient, and incredibly well-preserved pottery found in the waters surrounding small artificial islands called crannogs in Scotland, the team were able to discern that cereals were cooked in pots and mixed with dairy products and occasionally meat, probably to create early forms of gruel and stew. They also discovered that the people visiting these crannogs used smaller pots to cook cereals with milk and larger pots for meat-based dishes. 

Cereal cultivation

Cereal cultivation in Britain dates back to around 4000 BCE was probably introduced by migrant farmers from continental Europe. This is evidenced by some, often sparse and sporadic, recovery of preserved cereal grains and other debris found at Neolithic sites. At this time pottery was also introduced into Britain and there is widespread evidence for domesticated products like milk products in molecular lipid fingerprints extracted from the fabric of these pots. However, with exception for millet, it has not yet been possible to detect molecular traces of accompanying cereals in these lipid signatures, although these went on to become a major staple that dominates the global subsistence economy today.

Previously published analysis of Roman pottery from Vindolanda (Hadrian’s Wall) demonstrated that specific lipid markers for cereals can survive absorbed in archaeological pottery preserved in waterlogged conditions and be detectable through a high-sensitivity approach but, importantly this was ‘only’ 2,000 years old and from contexts where cereals were well-known to have been present. The new findings reported now show that cereal biomarkers can be preserved for thousands of years longer under favourable conditions. Another fascinating element of this research was the fact that many of the pots analysed were intact and decorated which could suggest they may have had some sort of ceremonial purpose. Since the actual function of the crannogs themselves is also not fully understood yet (with some being far too small for permanent occupation) the research provides new insights into possible ways these constructions were used.

Culinary traditions of early farmers

During analysis, cereal biomarkers were widely detected (one third of pots), providing the earliest biomolecular evidence for cereals in absorbed pottery residues in this region. The findings indicate that wheat was being cooked in pots, despite the fact that the limited evidence from charred plant parts in this region of Atlantic Scotland points mainly to barley. This could be because wheat is under-represented in charred plant remains as it can be prepared differently (e.g., boiled as part of stews), so not as regularly charred or because of more unusual cooking practices. Cereal markers were strongly associated with lipid residues for dairy products in pots, suggesting they may have been cooked together as a milk-based gruel.

The research was led by Drs Simon Hammann and Lucy Cramp at the University of Bristol’s Department of Anthropology and Archaeology. Dr Hammann said: “It’s very exciting to see that cereal biomarkers in pots can actually survive under favourable conditions in samples from the time when cereals (and pottery) were introduced in Britain. Our lipid-based molecular method can complement archaeobotanical methods to investigate the introduction and spread of cereal agriculture.” Dr Cramp added: “This research gives us a window into the culinary traditions of early farmers living at the north-western edge of Europe, whose lifeways are little understood. It gives us the first glimpse of the sorts of practices that were associated with these enigmatic islet locations.”

Crannog sites in the Outer Hebrides are currently the focus of the four-year Arts and Humanities Research Council-funded ‘Islands of Stone’ project, directed by two of the papers’ authors (Duncan Garrow from the University of Reading and Fraser Sturt from the University of Southampton) along with Angela Gannon, Historic Environment Scotland. The next stage of the research at the University of Bristol is an exploration of the relationship between these islets and other Neolithic occupation sites in the Hebridean region and beyond as well as more extensive comparative study of the use of different vessel forms through surviving lipid residues.

Main photo: One of the first pots to be discovered, an Unstan Bowl from Loch Arnish. Photo: Chris Murray.

Kinloch Castle on the isle of Rum is an ornate castle which was built by George Bullough, son of a rich industrialist and friend of the Japanese emperor in the 19^th century. It was once a place where the fashionable set of the day including aristocrats and actors would visit. Now frozen in time but slowly crumbling despite all sorts of plans over the years, including intervention by the then Prince Charles, the castle is looking for help to secure its future as a key part of the small island community as Judy Vickers explains.

In fairy tales when a knight in shining armour arrives at a castle for a rescue, it’s generally a princess locked up inside who needs his assistance. In real life, however, on the Hebridean island of Rum, it’s the castle itself which needs help – and the knight in shining armour isn’t being welcomed by everyone.

The castle in question is next to the island’s tiny village of Kinloch. It is a pink-stoned turn-of-the-century crumbling pile owned by NatureScot, Scotland’s government-owned nature agency which has been trying to find a buyer and secure a viable future for it for years. The knight is multi-millionaire businessman Jeremy Hosking, who is said to be willing to buy it, stump up the millions to restore it and put it into a trust in order to open it to the public.

The news of Mr Hosking’s involvement earlier this year was welcomed by politicians, heritage experts and the campaign group Friends of Kinloch Castle. But some of those living in Kinloch aren’t so keen on the prospective new owner and have convinced a government minister to put a hold on the sale.

It’s just the latest twist in the tale of the castle which was once a playground for the rich with Gaiety Girls allegedly dancing on the grand piano and hummingbirds filling the conservatory but which is now more of a castle under a spell, its opulent Edwardian interiors frozen in time, waiting for a knight with deep pockets to stop their slow decay.

The most ostentatious shooting lodge ever

Kinloch is now the only inhabited settlement on the island of Rum (sometimes written Rhum or Rùm). The diamond-shaped island is one of the four main Small Isles of the Inner Hebrides off the west coast of Scotland. The others are Eigg, famous for its community buyout 25 years ago; Canna, owned by the National Trust for Scotland; and Muck, privately owned by the MacLean family – Lawrence MacLean, who died in May, was known as the Prince of Muck. Rum has always been at the whim of its wealthy owners. When the kelp industry – used to make soda ash for explosives – dried up after the Napoleonic Wars, the island was given over to sheep farming and within less than 40 years a population of more than 400 had been cleared by the owners, the Macleans.

It was then owned by a succession of wealthy landowners, when it became known as the Forbidden Island as uninvited island visitors were discouraged – there was no ferry service in those days. In 1884, John Bullough, a mill owner from Lancashire in England, became the latest of those rich landlords. He bought the castle to create a shooting pleasure park, introducing deer and game birds, and when his son George inherited it in 1891 he built perhaps the most ostentatious shooting lodge ever – Kinloch Castle.

The castle took three years to build, from 1897 to 1900, with pink sandstone imported from the island of Arran and 250,000 tons of soil for the gardens. It was state-of-the-Edwardian-art with a hydro-electric scheme, one of the first at a private residence in Scotland, allowing electric lights and air conditioning – there was also double glazing and an inter-room telephone system, as well as a lavish interior décor with mahogany panelling, stags’ heads, tiger skins and Eastern exotic treasures, many gifts from the Emperor of Japan, whom George had struck up a friendship with while sailing the world on his 221-ft yacht the Rhouma.

A special German-built orchestrion, an elaborate electric pipe organ designed to simulate the sound of an entire orchestra, had originally been ordered by Queen Victoria, destined for Balmoral Castle, but her death saw it diverted to join the other extravagances at Kinloch. Outside, a domed glasshouse – which later blew down in a storm – was full of hummingbirds, turtles and alligators (the latter in heated tanks), while the walled garden was lined with hothouses containing peach and fig trees. While the scratches on the grand piano were actually made when a brass incense burner was knocked over rather than the heels of dancing London chorus girls, the castle’s heyday did see parties full of bright young things fill the ballroom, billiard room, galleried hall, dining room, drawing room, morning room, squash court, bowling green or small golf course – and of course out on the hills shooting for the fashionable “Highland season”.

Opulent grandeur has been quietly decaying

It was a brief moment in the sun, however. There was little time, money or manpower for such frivolities in the aftermath of the First World War. George – Sir George from 1901 when he was knighted for turning his beloved yacht into a hospital ship during the Second Boer War – died in 1939. His widow, Lady Monica Bullough, sold the island to the Nature Conservancy Council, a forerunner of NatureScot, in 1957 “to be used as a nature reserve in perpetuity and Kinloch Castle maintained as far as may be practical” and Rum became a National Nature Reserve the same year. Only the family’s mausoleum remains in their ownership.

The island’s natural assets have since thrived – sheep and cattle were taken off the island and the natural woodland scrub allowed to return. The island’s famous red deer now form part of an internationally important study and eagles, both white-tailed and golden, as well as otters, dolphins and basking sharks are among the wildlife frequently spotted on land, sea and air. The introduction of the Small Isles ferry in 2004, complete with a new pier on Rum at Kinloch, means the once forbidden isle is now popular with tourists keen to hillwalk the Rum Cuillin, wildlife spot or enjoy its quiet beaches.

Even the population, which dwindled from 100 in 1900 to 28 in 1951 and remained at just over 20 for many years, has seen an increase in recent years. The Isle of Rum Community Trust has seen some of village transferred to community ownership and has built new homes, successfully attracting new families in 2020 and boosting the population to around 40.

But the last half a century has not been so kind to the castle and, despite some restoration by NatureScot, its opulent grandeur has been quietly decaying. The servants’ quarters were used as a hostel up until 2015 but now even that is closed and leaks, with dry rot and woodworm having taken hold. The castle’s appearance on the 2003 TV programme Restoration highlighted its plight and there were various schemes proposed including one from The Prince of Wales’s Regeneration Trust. But all have come to nothing so far. NatureScot has warned the public purse cannot afford its upkeep and a solution must be found soon. So will Mr Hosking, a noted railway enthusiast who has funded many steam heritage projects, be the saviour this sleeping beauty castle has been searching for, with the islanders’ fears over access roads and energy supplies overcome? Only time will tell.

There aren’t too many events in Australia that can claim to have thrived and survived for over 150 years and after a two-year hiatus, the Maryborough Highland Gathering is back for its 160^th instalment this New Year’s Day. Maryborough’s Highland Gathering was originally formed by Scottish squatters and businessmen in an attempt to recreate the New Year celebrations of their native home.

Today, the Highland Gathering attracts people from all across the country – athletes, dancers, musicians, and those who just want to soak up the incredible atmosphere of piped bands and traditional Scottish culture. The program has something for everyone.

A great way to celebrate the new year

A piped band street parade, all-day athletics, highland dancing on two stages all day, Highland games and traditional strongmen event. Track events on the day range from 70-metre sprints to middle-distance races over 1500 metres. There are events for both men and women, including veterans. The athletics program culminates with the running of the $15,000 Max Martin Memorial Maryborough Gift, contested over 120 metres; now one of the country’s most prestigious footraces.

Anyone who’s attended the event over the past 35 years will have a lasting memory of the Girl on the Drum spectacular that has become a highlight of the New Year celebrations. It features a highland dancer atop a base drum, lifted to the shoulders of three burly Scots. Flanked by a full piped band and other traditional dancers, it really is a sight and sound spectacular not to be missed. There is plenty to keep the kids entertained too, with games, sideshows and rides happening throughout the day. The day concludes with a free evening concert and fireworks display – a great way to celebrate the new year.

The Maryborough Highland Gathering takes place on January 1^st, 2023 in Maryborough, Victoria. Entry to Princes Park is $16 for adults, $8 for seniors, with children under 16 free. For more information call 03 5461 1480 or visit www.highlandsociety.com.au.

Join the Scottish Society of Ottawa for the eleventh celebration of Hogman-eh! – the annual Scottish-style New Year’s Eve celebration and the largest Hogmanay celebration outside of Scotland. This is a family friendly way to close off the past year and to ring in the new. The Scottish Society of Ottawa is happy to celebrate it with you in-person and in the comfort of your home!

Two Ways to Celebrate!

Celebrate the coming of the New Year with family and friends at Lansdowne Park with brilliant live entertainment! Rock the night with Mariner’s Curse, The Mudmen, and Alan Frew Band! Experience a brilliant firework show, Highland dancers including eight-time World Champion Marielle Lespérance, pipes and drums, Scottish historical booths, a Climate Café, enjoy food and drink, and of course there will be Scotch whisky! Limited tickets will be available for the event.

Prefer to celebrate in the comfort of your own home? Enjoy our spectacular free live streaming event with some of the evening’s highlights. Online entertainment available on our Facebook page, YouTube channel or at ottscot.ca.

Ceud mìle fàilte! That is Gaelic for one hundred thousand welcomes. More than just a greeting, this phrase is a symbol, to tell you that whoever you are, or wherever you are from, we welcome you!

Visit ottscot.ca for details and tickets. 

People around the world are being invited to share a story about Rosslyn Chapel, as part of Scotland’s Year of Stories 2022, with the aim of adding a variety of personal reminiscences to the Chapel’s archive.   

Rosslyn Chapel, which was founded in 1446, has featured in a number of stories, most notably Dan Brown’s novel, The Da Vinci Code, which led to a large increase in visit to the Midlothian site. The Chapel has, though, attracted visitors for generations, with early visitors recording their stories in travel journals. In one of the earliest, Thomas Kirk describes the story of the Apprentice Pillar in his Tours in Scotland, dated 12 August 1677. Now, Rosslyn Chapel Trust is looking to add stories and memories of more recent visits to its archives.

Pass it on to future generations

Ian Gardner, Director of Rosslyn Chapel Trust, said: ‘We often hear stories and memories about Rosslyn Chapel and now we want to record these for the future as part of our archive. This year, designated Scotland’s Year of Stories 2022, provides the perfect opportunity for us to do that. Whether you have visited in the past, or attended an event, a church service, wedding or concert, please share your story with us so that we can pass it on to future generations’.

Stories can be emailed to [email protected] or shared through Rosslyn Chapel Trust’s Facebook page. A selection of stories will be published on the Chapel’s website.    

Rosslyn Chapel was built for Sir William St Clair and was incomplete when he died in 1484. The beauty of its setting and the mysterious symbolism of its ornate stonework have inspired, attracted and intrigued visitors ever since. The Chapel came to worldwide prominence when it featured in the novel The Da Vinci Code and the subsequent film. The Chapel is open to visitors daily and tickets can be booked on the Chapel’s website www.rosslynchapel.com

Led by VisitScotland, the Year of Stories 2022 sustains and builds upon the momentum of preceding Themed Years, showcasing a nationwide programme of major events and community celebrations.  Scotland’s Year of Stories 2022 spotlights, celebrates and promotes the wealth of stories inspired by, written, or created in Scotland. 

Edinburgh Castle will transform into a ‘Kingdom of Colours’ this winter as the capital’s most iconic landmark is illuminated with state-of-the-art projections to highlight stories from Scotland’s history. Guests can expect a truly immersive experience as Edinburgh Castle is brought to life once again through spectacular light and sound displays to brighten up the darker months. Bursting with colour and spectacular illuminations, the Kingdom of Colours theme promises to offer visitors the chance to see the castle in a whole new light this winter. Set to showcase the castle’s stories as ‘defender of the nation’, the historic moments dating back 800 years will be displayed through many thematic zones.

Drawing inspiration from kaleidoscope patterns, this year’s projections include a mix of geometric designs depicting stories from Scotland’s past, transforming the castle with light, sound and wonder like never before. Stephen Duncan, Director of Marketing and Engagement at Historic Environment Scotland, which operates Edinburgh Castle, said: “We’re excited to be back for another year but this time we’re bringing together even more storytelling, music and extraordinary displays to build our biggest show to date. We felt it was important that we continued to bring light and joy to the capital during the darker months. We hope that much of the community and visitors to the city are able to experience the wonder of Castle of Light in 2022.”

Castle of Light is now on until Friday 30 December 2022. For more information visit: www.castleoflight.scot.

Kilts swirled, drums played, bagpipes sang, cabers were tossed, and ropes tugged as 600 competitors competed in all the traditional Scottish sports at Hororata Highland Games in November.  The Games, located just outside Christchurch, hosted the first Pipe Band competition in 18 months with 20 bands traveling from all over the South Island to compete. They combined to play together in the massed bands’ march which brought a tear to people’s eyes as the sound wave of bagpipes and drums rolled over the huge crowd. 

Heavy athletes from Australia and New Zealand battled for the Oceania Heavyweight Championship over eight disciplines including the Caber Toss and the Hororata Stones. Australian, Terry Sparkes retained the title giving him back-to-back wins, albeit with a three-year gap for this international Championship as it was last run in 2019. The Games also hosted the New Zealand Heavyweight Championship which Ashburton’s Craig Manson won. The Women’s Championship was hotly contested with Australian Lily Riley winning.

Strongwoman, Red Wiard travelled from Brisbane to compete in Hororata for the first time and was blown away by the event, “I am so grateful for this experience. It was a massive day. Being in the arena with 10,000 people cheering me on made me feel like a celebrity. I am going home with 2^nd place, a few personal bests, new friends and a whole lot of memories.” 

Celebrates Scottish culture with a Kiwi twist

Have A Go is another part of the Games with people of all ages able to enter the arena to see if they can toss a caber, play the pipes or be victorious in the Tug of War. Cindy Driscoll from the Hororata Community Trust explains that the ‘have a go’ element is a most popular part of the festival. “This gives people an intimate experience of the Highland Games because they don’t just watch but are part of it, and then some catch the bug and end up becoming competitors.”

In every corner of this festival, there is something to discover including medieval arts, sword fighting, live music and of course haggis; all combined for a rich cultural experience. 

In a show of true community spirit 230 volunteers join the Hororata Community Trust to make the Hororata Highland Games happen. “The Games is unique in the way it celebrates Scottish culture with a Kiwi twist but what really makes it special is the passion people give in to making the event happen. Our community is not defined by lines on a map.  A huge group coming together, bringing passion and energy for a common cause. For 11 years the Games really has become part of who we are. We are Clan Hororata,” said Cindy.

Kate Foster was the 11^th Hororata Highland Games Chieftain and the first local to be bestowed this honour. “The Games is very much at the heart of our community.  It showcases our rural area to the world, celebrates our history, brings people together and provides a fundraising platform for groups. The Games enables the Hororata Community Trust to support the community to embark on our next project which is developing the Hororata Community Hub. This will be a modern vibrant facility that celebrates our heritage and provides for community needs now and into the future,” said Kate. 

The 12^th Hororata Highland Games will take place on Saturday 4^th November 2023. For details see: www.hororata.org.nz/highland-games

All images unless noted: Jeremy Sim.

The overall champion of the prestigious Glenfiddich Piping Championship has been named as Willie McCallum. The win marks a record ninth win for Willie, extending his record of having the most overall wins ever.  Willie McCallum, from Campbeltown, went up against nine of the world’s greatest solo players at the renowned 49^th annual competition at Blair Castle last night to claim the title.  Callum Beaumont was crowned runner-up and Fred Morrison was third overall.  

Callum Beumont was named the Piobaireachd winner, and the March, Strathspey and Reel (MSR) competition was also won by Willie McCallum. The 2022 Balvenie Medal Winner was Tom Brown. Tom was an inspirational piping tutor for generations of young people at Lochgelly High School. The Balvenie Medal was introduced the Glenfiddich Piping Championship in 1985 and is awarded for “Services to Piping”.

Pinnacle of solo piping competition

The competition played out in front of a live audience in Blair Castle’s Victorian ballroom and hundreds from around the world who watched the spectacle online. Overall winner Willie McCallum said: “It’s such an honour to be taking home the Glenfiddich trophy. It was a fierce competition and everyone played their absolute best so it means a lot to have been named as the overall winner.”

The National Piping Centre’s Director of Piping, Finlay MacDonald, said: “It’s fantastic to be back at Blair Castle for the 49^th annual Glenfiddich Championship. This is the pinnacle of solo piping competitions and all of this year’s competitors upheld their reputations as the best in the world. They all should all be extremely proud of themselves, it was incredible to watch them all perform in this magnificent venue.”

Competitors travelled from near and far to take part, including 2021 champion Jack Lee from British Columbia, Canada, Jamie Forrester from London, the USA’s Nick Hudson, Connor Sinclair from Crieff, and Fred Morrison from Renfrewshire. The Glenfiddich Piping Championship was established in 1974 to inspire the world’s finest exponents of Ceòl Mòr or Piobaireachd (the great music) and Ceòl Beag or light music (the little music). Run by The National Piping Centre, the world centre for excellence in bagpipe music, and funded through the William Grant Foundation, the event is held annually at Blair Castle in Blair Atholl, Perthshire.

Photo: Callum Beaumont and Willie McCallum.

On January 7 and 8, 2023 the Keys kick off one of the most anticipated events of the year, the Florida Keys Celtic Festival. Celebrating its 10^th year, the festival is bringing back some of the favorite bands, including, Screaming Orphans, Albannach, West of Galway, The Byrne Brothers and the Police Pipe and Drum Corps of Florida.

There will be plenty of Celtic food with a variety of teas and ales. Highlights of the two-day event include: vendors with Celtic themes, Irish dancing, a parade, a fabulous children’s Glen, sheep dog herding and Women’s Highland Athletic Competition.

Perfect for the whole family

This festival is perfect for the whole family and supports the Hammock House, a free after school educational and nutritional program. Tickets are available for $10 per day at www.KeysTix.com if purchased in advance and $12 at the gate. 

You can get further information by going to their website: www.floridakeyscelticfestival.com, email:  [email protected], or contact St Columba Episcopal Church at 305 743-6412. Keep up to date on their Facebook page, Florida Keys Celtic Festival.

The Scots School Albury Pipe Band is back in competition mode with a vengeance after a Covid-pause, and Pipe Major Liam Nicolson and Drum Major Damon Wright are leading the way. Wright led a trio of drummers to become among the very best in the world following their outstanding success at the World Solo Drumming Championships in Glasgow recently and Nicolson competed on the world stage for outstanding results during a tour to Scotland in August.

Wright and youngster Rollo Nickols are now ranked third in the world for drumming and Josh Niuila eighth. Wright finished third in Juvenile Section 2 (14-and-over but under-18, NJ/G4 March), Nickols was third in the Juvenile Section 1 (Under 14, NJ/G4 March) and Niuila was eighth in the same category as Wright.

In August, Nicolson excelled during a whirlwind tour of Highland Gatherings in Scotland. He placed fourth in the prestigious MacGregor Memorial Piobaireachd, an unofficial world championship for junior pipers.  Just to be accepted to play, Nicolson had to submit a formal application, including references and results. Judges selected the tune each Piper would play for the heats and another for the final. Nicolson played Queen Elizabeth 2^nd in the heat followed by MacLeods Salute in the final. The 16-year-old was the second youngest piper in the contest and youngest in the final.

During his international tour, he was successful at the Lonarch Highland Games (1^st in the Piobaireachd, 1^st in the 2/4 March, 1st in the Strathspey & Reel), Cowal Highland Games  (1^st in the MSR, 2nd in the Piobaireachd), Glenfinnan Highland Games (1^st in the Strathspey & Reel, 2^nd in the Piobaireachd, and 3^rd in the March), Glen Isla Highland Games (2^nd in the March and 2^nd in the S&R), St Andrew’s Highland Games (1^st in the 2/4 March, 1^st in the S&R), The Northern Meeting (2^nd in the under 18 Piobaireachd) and finished with another win at the Braemar Highland Gathering (1^st in the Under 18 Piobaireachd, 1^st in the 2/4 March). Liam’s international success was on the back of being named Victorian Champion C-Grade piper at the Victorian Solo Piping Championships in July.

Travel and competition

Wright also has been turning heads in Australia for his drumming. He was recently named Australian Young Drummer of the Year 2022 at a competition in Sydney and that followed hot on the heels of winning the Victorian B Grade Snare champion at the Victorian Solo Drumming Championships in Melbourne. The pair lead a talented bunch of pipers and drummers at Scots who are preparing for the World Pipe Band Championships in Scotland next year. It will be the first time the entire Pipe Band has been to Scotland since its performance at the 2017 Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo, when Nicolson and Wright were 10 years old and in Year 5.  Back then, the students endured a brutal schedule of 27 night-time performances in 31 days, while keeping up their schoolwork from 9am-3pm each day. No concession was made for the students’ youth and they were expected to perform consistently and without compromise alongside adult pipe bands.

Overseas tours can be a tough initiation for many of the young students and to help build their perseverance and resilience for the world championships next year, Pipe Band co-ordinator Scott Nicolson recently led a tour to the Kuala Lumpur Highland Games in Malaysia. “We haven’t had much opportunity for competition during Covid, so it was good to get away with the band members to KL and just expose them to the vagaries of travel and competition,” Mr Nicolson said.

The band picked up first place in the Kuala Lumpur Highland Games Champion Mini Band and a third place in the Band contest. Young pipers and drummers also excelled with the following results: 1st D Grade and Champion Piper of the Day – Jonny Coe. 1^st Novice Piper – Noah Boundy. 2^nd Novice Piper – Neve Harris. 1^st Novice Bass – Clancy Ledger. 3rd D Grade Snare – Storm Tanuvasa. The Scots School Albury will be hosting a Highland Games at the school on Saturday 11th March 2023. This will be followed by a Tattoo. Prospective stall holders can contact the school at the number below.

More information: Rowena Newcomen: 02 6022 0000 or 0417 428 579.

Podcasts, in 2021 it was reported that there were between 850,000 and 1 million active podcasts, and over 48 million total podcast episodes out there, with the majority of podcasts coming from the United States of America. However, just like with the breath-taking scenery and mouth-watering food, Scotland too boasts some fantastic podcasts and content.

One such podcast is Scottish Murders, which is hosted by Scottish sisters Dawn and Cole, and have been releasing regular podcast episodes since July 2021. Scottish Murders is a podcast dedicated entirely to murders of Scottish people or murders that have taken place in Scotland. While Scottish Murders covers some truly barbaric murders and highlights a darker side to Bonnie Scotland, it also ensures to showcase some good points about the area where a murder took place too.

Showcase some fantastic Scottish podcasts

Dawn, one of the hosts of Scottish Murders, had the idea to bring together as many Scottish podcasters as possible and for them to collaborate together, to really showcase some fantastic Scottish podcasts from genres such as comedy, sport, news, society and leisure, television and film, education, arts and of course true crime. The Scottish Collaboration is an online event that has been organised to take place from Monday 5^th December to Sunday 11^th December 2022. However, once Dawn had begun the journey of contacting Scottish podcasters to bring them together for this event, the scope broadened slightly, and now small Scottish businesses and musicians will also be taking part in the event so their products and talents can also be showcased.

All information about the Scottish Collaboration as well as details of all participants taking part, can be found at www.scottishmurders.com/collab and a full daily schedule of what’s happening on each podcast will be available there closer to the event taking place.

Follow Scottish Murders on social media or check out #scottishcollab to ensure you don’t miss a thing.

Falkirk plays a huge part in the Wallace story, from his mother’s Connection to Grangemouth to his uncle preaching at Dunnipace as well as his closest friend hailing from the area.

The Battle of Falkirk itself played a huge role in Falkirk’s history. While Wallace would ultimately lose at Falkirk this would set up Wallace future and is grisly murder.

Bring history to life

The Wallace Trail wants to bring the multitude of stories that weave the fabric that is not only history of Falkirk buy also Scotland itself. From the 600 men of Bute to the heroism of Macduff of Fife, Graeme and Stewart to the theory of betrayal.

The project aims to bring schools and community groups into creating a Wallace trail that will not only bring history to life but also encourage the community to contribute and get involved on its creation.

If you can help bring history to life see: www.justgiving.com/crowdfunding/thewallacetrail

By: Philip Beane

The 23^rd hereditary Chief of Clan MacBean was installed by the Lord Lyon at MacBain Park near Inverness in August and a memorial was dedicated to the memory of Alan Bean, the astronaut who took a piece of MacBean tartan to the moon. The Chief of Clan MacIntosh was present along with clansmen from both sides of the Atlantic as US reader Philip Beane explains.

 

August 6, 2022, was going to be a big day for Clan MacBean, and for my wife Jennifer and me.  We had planned to go to the Alan Bean Memorial ceremony when it was originally scheduled back in August 2020.  We paid for the tickets and added a tour of Scotland and were to spend some time in the Inverness area.   COVID, canceled those plans but instead of a refund, I did get a credit towards a future tour, which we decided to use this summer. The sad deaths of Chief James MacBain and his wife Peggy in the past year now meant that a new Chief of Clan MacBean/MacBain had to be put in place.   My own Mother and Father had known MacBain and his wife since meeting them in the 1980’s.  I had met him when I was President of the Clan MacBean and when he came to the Sumter and Greenville, SC games, I acted as sort of an aide for both.   But now, their son Richard was going to be inaugurated as the new Chief of Clan MacBean and we had the chance to be present for that historic occasion.

We wanted to be in Inverness a few days before the ceremony so we could explore the area where the MacBean Clan had lived so long ago.  Of note, the standing stones made famous in the Outlander TV series are just outside of Inverness at the Clava Cairns.  Jennifer ran up to the big stone that Claire Randall had touched.  Claire had then been transported in time back to Scotland of the 1740’s, but thankfully Jennifer is still here with us today.   The MacBain Park is not on a regular tour route, so I paid a driver extra to take us to the park. We were the only visitors and we wondered around and took pictures, the Alan Bean Memorial was very well done.  We drove on down to Dores for dinner and signed the Clan MacBean guest book. At the dinner, Jennifer and I were seated at a table with 8 members of Clan MacBean.  I do believe that our Clan had maybe 40 people present for the dinner and our new Chief, Richard McBain of McBain was a guest and speaker.  

The inauguration

At our table, was John MacBain, brother of Allan MacBain who will become the “chieftain” of Clan MacBean for the UK.  After the work on the Alan Bean Memorial was stopped by COVID in March 2020, John was asked by Richard to be the local representative to deal with the stone masons and other workmen to get the project completed.  After the original masons did not work for 1 year, John approached some masons who were very expensive and couldn’t guarantee a finish before October 2022.   John then found a local stone mason and he and that gentleman finished the Memorial, two benches and worked on the older Chief’s Memorial further up the hill.   John was instrumental in getting the Alan Bean Memorial finished within budget and on time.   For that our entire Clan should be thankful. Our new Chief made a few comments at the dinner, and it should be noted that the Lord Lyon presented Clan Chattan with its very own Coat of Arms.  This heraldry is for the organization of Clan Chattan and every member is entitled to wear the special Coat of Arms.  It doesn’t belong to just any one individual, like the Coat of Arms of a Clan Chief.

The day of the inauguration was a beautiful day, blue skies with some white clouds. Although Loch Ness was very close, it was not visible from the park then due to the summer foliage. The City of Inverness also sent a representative to this very important regional event. Local cyclists rode by, and some paused to watch the very colorful proceedings.   Mr. Phillip Beddows of the UK was doing a great job as MC for this event.  He is also a Clan Historian and the Seanachaidh to the Chief.   I am glad I am writing that title and don’t have to pronounce it.   The dignitaries marched in behind the official Clan MacBean piper, Stewart McBain who played a special pipe tune that was made especially for the Chief of Clan MacBean. First was the dedication of the Memorial to Astronaut Alan Bean who took the Clan MacBean tartan to the moon and back.  A truly notable achievement, if you ask me. They played a recording of Alan Bean’s daughter, Amy, who talked about her Father and his connections to Clan MacBean.  The Chief gave formal recognition to John MacBain and others who gave of their time and efforts to have the Memorial completed on time.

23^rd Hereditary Chief of Clan MacBain

Next the Lord Lyon, Joseph Morrow, gave a talk about the importance of the ceremony inaugurating the new Chief of Clan MacBean.   I talked with the Lord Lyon afterwards about the significance of our Chief living in Arizona.   The Lord Lyon stated that adhering to all the requirements and duties of the office was much more important than where the Chief lived.  He pointed out that over the centuries so many Clansmen had gone to other parts of the world and that it would be expected that some Chiefs would also live away from Scotland.   The Lord Lyon, told me that inaugurations, like the one that day, were important and that he was there representing the Scottish Community.  He felt strongly about the Clan and family system that exists in Scotland.  He feels that it gives so many a sense of identity, a sense of belonging, and a word he used…rootedness.   Clans were original formed for safety and community.   They can still fulfill a role today in giving one a Scottish community they can belong to.   We moved on to the actual inauguration of our new 23^rd Hereditary Chief of Clan MacBain.   The Lord Lyon spoke about the history of these events.  Phillip Beddows gave the genealogy of our line of Clan MacBean chiefs and presented Richard with a special and elaborately made “Cromach”.  Money from many Clan members went towards the purchase of this special Shepherds Crook. 

The Chief talked about the future of the Clan and the history of the MacBain Memorial Park.   Whisky was passed out and a toast was given to the new Chief of Clan MacBean.  It was a wonderful and moving ceremony. Later, the Chief talked to me about how pleased he was about how well the whole thing had come together, and explained that the four main organizers of the event all lived in different locations on both sides of the pond (most had met for the first time only on the day of the Clan Chattan Annual Meeting that week). The Chief discussed his wish that Allan MacBain assume the role of Clan Chieftain and represent him at events where he can’t attend, particularly in the UK.   There is some discussion by the Standing Council of Scottish Chiefs about the role of Clan Chieftains but our Chief feels strongly about the position. Richard also told the story of finding a penned tune for a piper in his father’s papers.  The tune had apparently been authorized by his grandfather back in the 70’s for a pipe band in Calgary.  Phillip Beddows posted the tune on Facebook and a man named Stewart McBain had copied it and learned to play the tune.  He volunteered to travel hundreds of miles to MacBain Park and play the tune for this ceremony. The Chief appointed him the Clan Piper for the UK.    The Chief also discussed the YouTube sites for Clan MacBean and Clan Chattan.  With 100 subscribers, YouTube gives page holders a lot of privileges, to include live streaming.  This could be used for future events such as the Clan Gatherings, etc. This trip was certainly a bucket list for myself and the whole adventure exceeded all my expectations.  The Scottish people, the weather and the countryside were wonderful and made the trip one I will remember always. 

 

Main photo: Richard McBain of McBain. Photo: Scott McElvain.

Lisa Williams from Suffolk has been crowned World Porridge Making Champion after beating competitors from around the world at the 29^th World Porridge Making Championship, which took place in the Highland village of Carrbridge. Lisa was amongst 26 competitors competing for the highly-coveted title of World Porridge Making Champion and the Golden Spurtle trophy. Following five heats, the final cook off included competitors from Australia, Iceland, Cyprus, Scotland and England.

Lisa said: “I can’t put into words how delighted I am. I came to Carrbridge thinking that I was saying goodbye to the Golden Spurtle trophy, and I can’t believe that I am taking it home with me again. It has been so lovely being back in the village seeing everyone. There’s great camaraderie amongst the competitors, and the whole event is so friendly and welcoming.”

The best traditional porridge

The title of World Porridge Making Champion is awarded to the contestant deemed to have made the best traditional porridge using just three ingredients – oatmeal, water and salt.

Entries are judged for appearance, texture, colour and taste. This year’s judges included former Gleneagles Executive Chef, Neil Mugg, Scottish MasterChef finalist Sarah Rankin, and New Zealander Kirsten Gilmour, owner of KJ’s Bothy Bakery in Grantown on Spey.

Neill Mugg, Chair of the judges, said: “Lisa’s porridge was really well made. Rich, flavourful, well seasoned and the perfect consistency.”

In addition to the main competition, the title of Speciality Porridge Champion is awarded to the creator of a sweet or savoury dish where oatmeal can be combined with any other ingredients. This year’s speciality winner was Chris Young, owner of street food and events caterer The Rolling Stove, who wowed the judges with his porridge noodles two ways, with hand-dived seared scallops and caramelised figs. The 2022 World Porridge Making Championship was held in person for the first time since 2019. A virtual speciality competition was held in 2020 and 2021 during the pandemic.

Karen Henderson, the main organiser of the 2022 World Porridge Making Championship said: “It has been wonderful to have porridge fans, their supporters and so many visitors in a very packed Carrbridge village hall. What started very much as a small local event has grown to be a highlight of Scotland’s food and drink calendar, and it has been fantastic being able to welcome back visitors from around the world again.”

Main photo: 2022 winners Chris Young and Lisa Williams.

Autumn is often the time when thoughts turn to travel plans for the coming year. To inspire you in planning you next trip, we’ve teamed up with VisitScotland, Scotland’s national tourism organisation, to bring you our top ten reasons to visit Scotland in 2023!

1) Explore Scotland’s UNESCO Trail

In a world first, Scotland has launched the first ever UNESCO digital trail. What makes Scotland’s UNESCO digital trail so unique is that the 13 designated sites featured, from Dumfries and Galloway in the south to Shetland in the north, feature such a variety of different experiences. These range from Cities of Literature, Music and Design, to World Heritage Sites of architectural and historic significance, and even geoparks and biospheres with fascinating geological and natural stories to tell. For more information see www.visitscotland.com/unesco-trail

2) Get a taste of farming life

A trend which has really taken off in the last few years is agritourism. More and more people are becoming aware of food provenance, and are looking to find out more about sustainable farming methods on a farm, croft or estate when they come to Scotland. Go Rural is a close-knit network of quality agritourism businesses throughout the Scottish countryside offering visitors high quality farm produce, accommodation and memorable experiences. They are passionate about producing the highest quality food and drink, caring for the environment, and protecting Scotland’s landscapes for everyone to enjoy responsibly. From luxury lodges and cosy cottages to camping and glamping, you’re sure to find your ideal farm experience. See www.goruralscotland.com

3) Relax on a wellness break

Given the fast pace of modern life, more and more of us are looking for ways to relax, de-stress, and reconnect with nature. The tranquillity of the Scottish countryside is so conducive to this type of break and there are a variety of options right across the country. You might choose to commune with the natural world by staying in a rural cottage in a peaceful glen, take to the waters on a sailing experience and spot wildlife as you go, or enjoy the soothing experience which an island holiday offers. You might want to undertake a mindfulness course or yoga retreat amid stunning countryside. Whichever you choose you’ll find it in Scotland. More information on these and many other wellness options at www.visitscotland. com/holidays-breaks/wellness

4) Discover the freedom of cycling

Scotland is made for cycling, offering 32,000 square miles of cycling adventures. Whether you’re a complete beginner, want to challenge yourself, or simply take it slow and enjoy some family time, there’s a cycling experience in Scotland that’s perfect for you. There are several long-distance routes through awe-inspiring scenery, purpose built world-class mountain biking trails at over 25 centres across the country, and lots of safe, traffic-free cycling networks and routes for fun, family days out, plus lots of options for bike hire and guided cycling tours. See www.visitscotland.com/cycling

If spectator sports are more your thing, the 2023 UCI Cycling World Championships, the biggest cycling event ever staged, will bring the world’s greatest riders together in Glasgow and across Scotland from 3 to 13 August: www.cyclingworldchamps.com

5) Connect with your Scottish ancestry

For anyone with Scottish connections, there’s nothing like actually being in Scotland – walking in the footsteps of your ancestors in landscapes they would have known well, and maybe even touching the walls of your clan or family castle which has seen centuries of history. If you have Scottish clan or family surnames in your family tree, you can visit the regions and places in Scotland most strongly associated with those names. For those wishing to explore their family genealogy, there is no better place to start than ScotlandsPeople in Edinburgh which holds a collection of records acknowledged to be among the best in the world (www.scotlandspeople.gov.uk). The Scottish Council on Archives, located in the same building, can provide fascinating insights into the wider social aspects of Scotland’s history (www.scottisharchives.org.uk). To find out more about how you can enjoy the unique and special experience of exploring your ancestry in Scotland, go to www.visitscotland.com/ancestry

6) Stay somewhere unusual

From holidaying in an apartment topped with a gigantic pineapple to enjoying a stay in a Hebridean cottage built to the design of a prehistoric island dwelling that looks like a set from a Tolkien novel, Scotland’s fantastic range of visitor accommodation offers so many experiences. You can stay in a castle, a lighthouse, a boat, a yurt, a church, a glamping pod, a tree house, a log cabin – all in midst of breath-taking countryside. You’ll find an abundance of suggestions at https://www.visitscotland.com/ accommodation/unusual-places-to-stay/

If you have a special occasion anniversary or event coming up, you might want to consider celebrating it Scotland by treating yourself to a touch of luxury. There are plenty of ideas to inspire you at www.visitscotland.com/luxury

7) Uncover the story of tartan

Although most closely associated with Scotland, tartan is known throughout the globe. It has a rich history, has inspired unity as well as rebellion, and while strongly linked with tradition, it has also made its mark on the contemporary world, even touching the pinnacle of high fashion. A fascinating, not-to-be missed exhibition entitled Tartan will take place at the V&A Dundee, Scotland’s design museum, from 1 April 2023 to January 2024. Bringing together a unique collection of objects and media, the exhibition will tell the story of the impact of tartan right up to the present day.

www.vam.ac.uk/dundee

8) Discover Scotland’s Royal connections

Following the sad news of the loss of Her Majesty The Queen in September, there has been a renewed focus on her famous love for Scotland, and the Scottish locations associated with the British Royal Family. Balmoral Castle at the heart of Royal Deeside is normally open to the public between April and July each year, though it is said His Majesty King Charles may be considering extending this. There are also a number of holiday cottages on the estate (www.balmoralcastle.com).

In Edinburgh, the Royal residence is the Palace of Holyroodhouse, lying at the foot of the historic Royal Mile where visitors can explore the rooms which once belonged to Mary Queen of Scots (www.rct.uk/visit/palace-of-holyroodhouse). Other Royal places to visit include the Royal Yacht Britannia in Edinburgh (www.royalyachtbritannia.co.uk), Glamis Castle in Angus (www.glamis-castle.co.uk), the enchanting childhood home of Queen Elizabeth The Queen Mother, her beloved holiday home at the Castle of Mey on the North coast of the Scottish Highlands (www.castleofmey.org.uk) and Dumfries House in Ayrshire which is now a visitor attraction and event venue (www.dumfries-house.org.uk).

9) Visit Scotland’s most fascinating churches

While Scotland has experienced times of religious turbulence, there’s no doubt that our many churches offer havens of peace and contemplation.

Greyfriars Kirk in Edinburgh has a rich history, from the Convenanters who fought for Scotland’s religious freedom to the story of the famous Greyfriars Bobby, plus a programme of world-class classical music performances (www.greyfriarskirk. com). Iona Abbey, located on the tiny island of the same name is a place of pilgrimage for many. Originally founded by St Columba in 563 AD, it is a magical place with a special atmosphere. See www.historicenvironment.scot or the Iona Community (www.iona.org.uk). Although no longer used as a church, the Italian Chapel in Orkney, built by Italian prisoners of war during WWII from two Nissan huts, is one of the islands’ best loved attractions. www.orkney.com

The Pilgrim Way is a 64-mile route across the Kingdom of Fife to St Andrews which for 400 years was one of the main pilgrimage destinations in Medieval Europe.

www.fifecoastandcountrysidetrust.co.uk/ walks/fife-pilgrim-way

The Lammermuir Festival takes place in East Lothian each September. This cultural gem offers stunning music and choral performances in a variety of equally stunning locations, including the county’s many churches. www.lammermuirfestival.co.uk

10) Experience Scotland’s newest city

Dunfermline is now officially Scotland’s newest city, having been granted city status in June. It actually boasts a rich and ancient history – no surprise, since it was once the capital of Scotland!

The impressive 12th century Dunfermline Abbey and Palace is effectively a Royal mausoleum, since it is the final resting place of Robert the Bruce and the burial site of 11 other Scottish kings and queens. The Andrew Carnegie Birthplace Museum is located in the humble cottage which was once the home of the world-famous philanthropist and tells the story of his life and legacy, and as you might expect, Dunfermline also has a Carnegie Library & Galleries! The city’s Pittencrieff Park, gifted to the local people by Carnegie himself offers an abundance of colour throughout the year with its Japanese, Rock and Kitchen Gardens, and glasshouses containing exotic plants from across the world.

For more information on Dunfermline see: www.visitscotland.com/info/towns-villages/dunfermline

For more inspiration on planning your 2023 visit, go to: www.visitscotland.com

Main photo: Blairmore farm, Crieff, luxery farm stay holidays. Photo: VisitScotland/Luigi Di Pasquale.

By: Neil Drysdale

For some Scottish musician Ian Bairnson may not be instantly a recognised name, however you are very likely to have heard the many projects which he was part of. Neil Drysdale tells the story of the Shetland guitarist who played on Kate Bush’s biggest hit Wuthering Heights. Ian Bairnson, also had a No 1 hit with Pilot, recorded backing vocals on Paul McCartney’s Mull of Kintyre and sold millions of records with the Alan Parsons Project.

It’s the longest-ever period between an artist having No 1 singles; a gap of 44 years from when Kate Bush scaled the peaks with Wuthering Heights to the success of Running Up that Hill this past Scottish summer. When the singer-songwriter first released her Gothic song, inspired by the Emily Bronte novel, early in 1978, she was still a teenager, Jimmy Carter was the American president, Margaret Thatcher was a year away from becoming the Prime Minister and Grease was the summer’s big box-office movie hit. But if Kate appeared to have emerged from her own private world, she was helped by the otherworldly guitar performances of another young musician who had grown up in the far north of Scotland.

And, even as a new generation enjoys her work after Running Up that Hill was featured on the series Stranger Things, it’s time to pay homage to how Ian Bairnson was an integral part of Kate’s early hits. Bairnson, born in 1953, spent his early years in Levenwick, a small village about 17 miles from Lerwick, on the east side of the South Mainland of Shetland. From an early age, he was interested in music and bought his first guitar at the age of six, for £3 15 shillings, with what he later described as “some birthday money”.

Expertise as a guitarist

His father, John, owned a local shop and while it was a remote setting, the youngster was encouraged by one of his neighbours, Peerie Willie Johnson, who dwelt at Bigton on the other side of the hill. Though still a child, Bairnson marvelled at the rhythmic sounds which Johnson could produce on his guitar whenever he visited him. Tragically, he lost his dad when he was just nine in 1963 and the family moved to Edinburgh. But that was only the start of a peripatetic career which propelled Bairnson to the top of the charts before he ever met Kate Bush. In some quarters, they were derided as teenyboppers, but with hindsight, Pilot were the antithesis of the Bay City Rollers.

When they released their first LP From the Album of the Same Name in 1974, it featured a compelling mixture of pop, rock, bossa nova, a quirky pub anthem in Auntie Iris and a bona fide classic hit single in Magic, which is still heard on football terraces and the occasional TV advertisement. Bairnson only featured on one track, but he was fully on board for their next effort, Second Flight, which propelled the band to the top of the charts with January at the beginning of 1975. And it offered further evidence that Bairnson and his fellow band members, David Paton, Billy Lyall and future 10cc drummer Stewart Tosh, weren’t simply expert craftsmen, but as comfortable with appearing live on The Old Grey Whistle Test as they were on Top of the Pops. The Pilot project soon hit the buffers, and there was something ironic from Bairnson’s perspective about how January was knocked off its pedestal by Cockney Rebel’s Make Me Smile (Come Up and See Me). Prior to joining his fellow Scots, he had been given the opportunity to become part of Steve Harley’s iconic band, but politely declined the offer.

In the grand scheme, it didn’t matter much because Bairnson’s expertise as a guitarist had attracted interest from some seriously big names – and, as 1976 turned into 1977, he and Paton were recruited as the engine room of The Alan Parsons Project which became a global multi-million-selling phenomenon.

Life was hectic for the Shetlander and his companions. Whilst recording the Alan Parsons work I Robot at the famous Abbey Road studios, he and Paton were enlisted to provide backing vocals for a song being created next door. It just happened to be a catchy little ditty called Mull of Kintyre by Paul McCartney and Wings, which subsequently became the top-selling single in UK history for the former Beatle and his new bandmates. By this stage, punk was taking over the charts to a large extent, but there was always room for new talent with a USP – and nobody could have foreseen the impact made by Kate Bush when she unveiled The Kick Inside in 1978. This was an LP of staggering imagination, featuring several songs which had been written when she was only 13 or 14. It was balletic, melodic, eccentric, occasionally mad as a bag of frogs and mesmerising in equal measure.

But what would the first single be? EMI wanted James and the Cold Gun (which might be the worst track on the album). Bush, who described herself as “the shyest megalomaniac you’re ever likely to meet” disagreed. And eventually, they all plumped for the song with nods to the Bronte canon. Now it was time for Bairnson to do for Wuthering Heights what Raf Ravenscroft had done for Gerry Rafferty’s Baker Street.

Wuthering Heights

It turned into one of those joyous occasions where everything clicked. Bush recorded her vocal in a single take and even some seasoned studio hands were amazed at the nonchalance with which she performed the swooping lyrics. The melancholic guitar solo was played by Bairnson, who initially said he disliked the tone due to “purely guitarist reasons”, but that’s what happens when you are a perfectionist. Audiences loved it, not least because it has a heartbreaking quality as the record fades out the way the novel ends. Engineer Jon Kelly – who went on to work with the likes of Paul McCartney, Tori Amos and the Beautiful South – was an ingenu when he was at the helm for that original session of the song.

No wonder he said later: “I remember finishing that first day….and thinking: ‘My God, that’s it. I’ve peaked!” Wuthering Heights was simply unique in the history of popular music. It was the first time a female singer-songwriter had ever topped the charts with a self-penned song. It had a video which featured just her in a swirl of fog and choreographic movement. She was completely in control at the age of 19.

Behind the scenes, Bairnson and Paton recorded the majority of the tracks for both The Kick Inside – which went platinum – and the follow-up Lionheart. There was great work on such songs as The Man with the Child in His Eyes, Strange Phenomena (long before Stranger Things) and Hammer Horror.

And although they had departed by the time Bush released Running Up that Hill in 1985, that didn’t mean life was any less hectic. If anything, Bairnson seemed determined to prove he could hit his stride in any musical genre whether writing, recording or performing. During the 1980s, he worked with The Alan Parsons Project, Jon Anderson, Buck’s Fizz (he co-wrote their 1983 hit Run For Your Life), Elaine Paige, Mick Fleetwood, Bananarama, Kenny Rogers, David Sylvian, in addition to rejoining Kate Bush for her experimental 1982 album The Dreaming. Then, in the 1990s, he teamed up with the likes of Sir Tom Jones, Jim Diamond, Beverley Craven and Tam White, while touring with Alan Parsons.

Nobody could ever accuse him of being one-dimensional or lacking industry or innovation. And, meanwhile, Japan woke up to the delights of Pilot and their albums suddenly became popular again with a whole new fan base, who demanded fresh material from Bairnson and Paton.

However, his busy itinerary couldn’t carry on indefinitely or not once his wife, Leila, posted a message on Facebook in 2018. She said: “I and Ian’s family would like to make you aware that he has been diagnosed a while ago with a progressive neurological condition which affects his communication skills. As a result, he will not be playing in public in future, although he still plays guitar and piano daily for his own pleasure. We would like to thank you for your loyal support through the years and to assure you that he is otherwise very healthy and receiving good care”.

It’s sad that such a gifted musician can no longer perform on concert stages. But Ian Bairnson has left a rich legacy for future generations to savour. And that unforgettable, spine-tingling fade-out on Wuthering Heights!

Experience the most unique golf tournament on this side of the pond while enjoying performances from Highland Dancers, Scotland’s finest whisky, beer and food tastings, Scottish trivia and much more. Chicago Scots, the oldest non-profit organization in Illinois, is celebrating its 176^th anniversary this year and recently hosted the 21^st annual Kilted Classic golf tournament at Cantigny Golf Course. Players could enter the tournament as a foursome, pair, or single, and were matched with a group after registering online.

The most unique golf tournament this side of the pond

Dubbed the most unique golf tournament this side of the pond, Kilted Classic players enjoyed performances from Highland Dancers, got to taste Scotland’s finest with whisky, beer, and food stations, test their knowledge with Scottish trivia, participate in competitions like Beat the Scot and Longest Drive, plus got the chance to win a bottle of whisky on every hole.  “We’re thrilled to be able to host our annual golf tournament for the 21^st year,” said Gus Noble, President of the Chicago Scots. “It’s something we look forward to all year and is tons of fun, all while supporting a cause we deeply care about.”

Following all the fun on the links, golfers and non-golfers were invited to stay for a causal dinner, cocktails and an auction to benefit Caledonia Senior Living & Memory Care, Chicago Scots’ primary beneficiary for over one hundred years that offers a range of outstanding services including Assisted Living, Sheltered Care, Memory Care, Intermediate and Skilled Nursing Care, and Respite Care.

For more information about the Chicago Scots, please visit: www.chicagoscots.org.

A selection of items from Ian Rankin’s literary archive has gone on display at the National Library of Scotland. Rankin – a crime writer of international literary success and renown – donated his archive to the Library in 2019, and also paid for a post to catalogue the collection. Since then, the Library has made most of the archive available for consultation at the reading rooms, and the forthcoming ‘Collections in Focus’ display will highlight just a taste of what’s in store for anyone who wishes to delve into the archive.

Manuscripts Curator Dr Colin McIlroy said: “For more than 30 years, Detective Inspector Rebus and other recurring major characters have captured the minds of millions around the world. Rankin enjoys a loyal following of people who are in love with his version of Edinburgh. The sense of place he has created is profound – anecdotally, we know many readers feel they have an intimate knowledge of the city without ever having been here. The world of Rebus and other characters had their genesis in the Library’s reading rooms, and it makes it all the more fitting – and thrilling – that documents chronicling decades of this writer’s thought processes are back home at the Library. We look forward to sharing some of the highlights on display.”

The archive is substantial

The size of the archive is substantial – in Library shelving terms it equates to 21 feet of archival material. Alongside working drafts of his novels, the archive also contains Rankin’s correspondence with other writers, and unsurprisingly, correspondence with police officers. Almost as famous for his music tastes as his writing, the archive also contains clues as to what Rankin might have been listening to while working on a particular novel, or what societal conundrum he was seeking to make sense of at the time. But as a whole, the archive provides tremendous insight into the working mind of a novelist, from early career to the top of their game.

Dr McIlroy adds: “It contains what people would typically expect – drafts of novels with handwritten notes to help guide the next draft. But it also includes the unexpected, such as highly critical notes to self. We’re truly indebted to Ian for including this oftentimes personal material. Emerging writers should take note, and comfort, that – even for successful authors – the writing process invariably involves a degree of internal struggle and self-criticism. But from this, it compels a writer to push themselves further. Where Rankin is concerned, the results speak for themselves.”

‘The Rankin Files’ runs until 29 April 2023, at the National Library of Scotland, George IV Bridge, Edinburgh. Entry is free. The Library will host an event with Ian Rankin on 24 November at George IV Bridge, Edinburgh, which will be live-streamed via YouTube.

After a few years of cancellations due to covid the Waipu Caledonian Society are excited to be able to hold the annual Waipu Highland Games, welcoming visitors from all over the world to join in celebrating all things Scottish.

On January 1, 2023, the society will be proudly be celebrating their 150^th Waipu Highland Games – a huge milestone in anyone’s history and they approach it with great anticipation. Activities and entertainment for all ages. There will be Highland dancing, solo piping and drumming competitions and traditional Scottish field events, kids’ events, adult tug o’ war, and a variety stage. A range of local stalls, food, and refreshments.

Celebrations start on the evening of the 31^st of December with the Helen McGregor Memorial Trophy in the Celtic Barn Foyer at 7.00pm.  An opportunity for pipers to “flair their fingers” playing whatever they like – be it a medley or several pieces, a modern pop song or something composed by themselves.

On January 1^st the day starts at 9.00am with the Street March and the grand entry of the band and clans with the salute to the chief.  The 2023 Chief is Bain McGregor and our host Clan for 2023 is Clan McLeod.

Competitions start from 9.00am.  and continue through the day, with a break for Lunch at 12.00pm for the official opening in the main arena.  The very popular and anticipated mass bands will form for the crowd to be entertained by pipers, drummers, and the Mass Highland Fling.  Finishing with the presentation of the Assynt Quaich.  

Competitions resume at 1.00pm with excitement in the Main Arena as heavyweights try and attempt to break records. The day finishes with a Ceilidh in the Celtic Barn at 7.00pm with special appearances and performances from our piping, drumming and dancing winners from the day throughout the night.

Waipu Highland Games take place on January 1^st in Waipu, Northland, New Zealand. Waipu are one of the longest-running Scottish gatherings in the Southern Hemisphere, offering fierce competition, spectacular entertainment and a full day of family-friendly fun. For more information on the 150^th Waipu Highland Games see: www.waipuhighlandgames.co.nz

The Pipes of Christmas will celebrate its 24^th joyous season with performances in New Jersey and New York this December. The holiday favorite opens on Saturday, December 17 at Madison Avenue Presbyterian Church, located at 921 Madison Avenue (at 73rd Street) for two performances at 2 and 7PM. The concert moves across the Hudson River on Sunday, December 18 to Central Presbyterian Church located at 70 Maple Street in Summit, NJ also with performances at 2 and 7PM.

In preparation for the concert’s return, producers have launched a GoFundMe campaign to help cover financial deficiencies brought about by two years of weathering the global Covid pandemic. Proceeds from the concert support an extensive music scholarship program, which include annual gifts to the National Piping Centre and the Royal Conservatoire of Scotland (both located in Glasgow, Scotland) the Gaelic College of Nova Scotia and the Carol Hassert Memorial Fine Arts Scholarship at Summit (NJ) High School.

Proceeds also support the annual Tartan Day on Ellis Island celebration and the Society’s sponsorship of the US National Scottish Harp Championship, the Gaelic Literature Competition at Scotland’s Royal National Mod, and an academic research prize at Sabhal Mòr Ostaig, Scotland’s Gaelic college on the Isle of Skye. The concert is also seeking Title Sponsors as well as Program Advertisers. These gifts help offset production expenses and outreach programs.

Celebration of the Christmas season and the Celtic spirit

Tickets will soon be available. GoFundMe donors will receive priority notice of ticket availability. As an extra incentive, donors exceeding $100 or more will also receive a specially produced downloadable EP featuring music from past concerts never before released. The EP features two remastered tracks from the Pipes’ highly acclaimed 2020 virtual concert, which was a finalist in Scotland’s 2021 MG Alba Trad Music Awards. O Holy Night features Scottish tenor Jamie McDougall and was recorded at Glasgow Cathedral. Famed Gaelic singer, Christine Primrose’s Lenabh an àigh, or Child of Joy, was recorded on the Isle of Skye.

Additional tracks from last year’s concerts in New York City and New Jersey include holiday favorites from the Blandford Pipe Band of Redlands, California; the US National Scottish Harp Champion Rachel Clemente; and a rollicking Traditional Set arranged by Steve Gibb from Inverness, Scotland and performed by top musicians.

Since its debut in 1999, The Pipes of Christmas has played to standing-room-only audiences. Now a cherished holiday event, the concert gives audiences a stirring and reverent celebration of the Christmas season and the Celtic spirit. Audience-goers return year after year to experience the program, many reporting that the Pipes of Christmas has become part of their family’s annual Christmas tradition.

The concert has been lavished with critical acclaim. In his review for Classical New Jersey Magazine, Paul Somers wrote, “The whole evening was constructed to introduce gem after gem and still have a finale which raised the roof. In short, it was like a well-constructed fireworks show on the Glorious Fourth. The Westfield Leader described the concert as “a unique sound of power and glory nowhere else to be found.”

For more information on the Pipes of Christmas visit: www.pipesofchristmas.com

To donate: www.gofundme.com/f/the-24th-annual-pipes-of-christmas

The clans of Scotland have reunited for the inauguration of the first Buchanan Clan Chief for over 340 years. Bringing together the Buchanan clan for the first time in centuries, John Michael Baillie-Hamilton Buchanan was appointed as the true heir and chief of the Buchanan Clan.  As the leader of a global community of over five million members, and one of Scotland’s oldest and most prestigious clans, the newly inaugurated chief pledged to lead the clan into the modern era. This historic Clan Chief’s Inauguration ceremony was based on existing resurrected ancient Celtic rituals and customs.

This unique event took place at Cambusmore, Callander, the modern seat of Clan Buchanan and the chief’s ancestral home. International representatives of the clan’s diaspora celebrated alongside the chiefs and other representatives of ten ancient Scottish clans. The last Buchanan chief, John Buchanan, died in 1681 without a male heir. Identifying the new chief required decades of genealogical research conducted by the renowned genealogist, the late Hugh Peskett. The inauguration event drew on Scottish traditions dating back prior to the coronation of the first King of Scots, Kenneth MacAlpine, in 843 AD. Heralded in by trumpet fanfare and accompanied by a procession of pipers and banner bearers, the chief was officially named and presented by the Lord Lyon King of Arms, Dr Joseph Morrow.

The ceremony cemented its place in Scottish history as the first for many hundreds of years, and the new chief swore an oath to protect and champion the Buchanan Clan. His first act as chief was to restore the Clan Parliament, for the first time in over 350 years, in order to explore the future of Clan Buchanan and discuss how its traditions can be celebrated in the modern day. The chiefly family was joined by several hundred clansfolk from across the globe, members of the Clan Buchanan Society International and heraldic expert Sir Crispen Agnew. The chief was honoured with the Letters Patent, which confirmed the Court of the Lord Lyon’s acceptance and legitimacy of his claim as chief.

The world’s oldest clan society

He was ‘crowned’ in traditional chiefly fashion with the ‘Balmoral Bonnet’ hat featuring three golden eagle feathers, the more contemporary style of headwear now used by Scottish clan chiefs. He was then presented with painstakingly recreated ‘clan jewels’ based on those historically thought used for this type of ancient inauguration ceremony. This included the Chief’s Signet Ring bearing The Buchanan coat of arms, representing family heritage, eternity and the Clan unification. The Chief of Clan Buchanan said: “This is a turning point in our clan’s history. For centuries our traditions were confined to the history books so it’s truly humbling that members of Clan Buchanan and our good friends from other clans have reunited to celebrate with us.  I have pledged to bring Clan Buchanan into the modern era by restoring our ancient traditions and championing the values, relevance, and importance of the global community we represent. For centuries our clan had no chief or Clan Parliament, so this is the start of a new era for Clan Buchanan.”

While Clan Buchanan can be traced back to 1010 AD in Scotland, its global community includes members across Great Britain, the USA, Canada, Australia, New Zealand and South Africa among many other countries. Over 120 affiliated family surnames are recognised as part of the clan including Watson, Morris, Richardson, Coleman, Gilbert, Walter and Harper. They are represented by the world’s oldest clan society, the Buchanan Society, which was established in 1725 to support members of the clan in times of hardship, and the worldwide Clan Buchanan Society International.  Kevin (Buck) Buchanan, Vice President of Clan Buchanan Society International based in California, said: “It’s fantastic to be here representing Clan Buchanan’s members from the USA. Our clan is spread across the globe but today we’ve united to make it relevant in the modern day while restoring our ancient traditions. This has been such a historic moment in Scotland – I’m proud to be part of it.”

Did you know?

-The Buchanan is the manager of Cambusmore Estate in the Southern Highlands near Callander. He has four children with his wife The Lady Buchanan including, Angus, Bruce, Lucy, and Rory.

-As well as those with the surname Buchanan, clansfolk also include those with Scottish roots and surnames such as Bohannon, Coleman, Colman, Cormack, Dewar, Dove, Dow, Gibb, Gibbon, Gibb, Gibson, Gilbert, Gilbertson, Harper, Masters, Masterson, Morris, Richardson, Rush, Rusk, Walter, Walters, Wasson, Waters, Watson, Watt, Watters, and Weir. In the modern day, these are known as affiliated families but were previously known as septs of the clan.

-Clan Chiefs must be approved by the Lord Lyon King of Arms. The Lord Lyon has full judicial powers to enforce use of heraldry and coats of arms in Scotland through the Lyon Court, the last surviving ‘Court of Chivalry’ in the world. Its powers are governed by an Act of the Scots Parliament from 1672. Many features of the inauguration ceremony came from a book by the late Lord Lyon, Sir Thomas Learney of Innes’ who wrote The Clans, Septs & Regiments of the Scottish Highlands.

-The inauguration celebration took place on Saturday 8 October at Cambusmore and was followed by the Clan Parliament meeting at Cambusmore Chapel and in the walled garden.

-Further information about the uniquely reconstructed ‘clan jewels’ are available at www.theclanbuchanan.com/jewels

Main photo: The Lady Buchanan with The Buchanan.

After opening its doors 224 years ago, the United States Consulate General in Edinburgh is launching an online poll and asking the Scottish public to help choose its official tartan.  One winner will be chosen among three designs, which incorporate colors and patterns influenced by the shared history between Scotland and the United States.  The poll closes Monday, November 21, with the winning design announced on St. Andrew’s Day, November 30.  Officials at the Consulate General partnered with acclaimed tartan designer Clare Campbell of Prickly Thistle, based in Evanton, north of Inverness, to develop the three options. The Consulate General’s winning design will be registered with the Scottish Register of Tartans, where it will be publicly accessible among thousands of other tartans.

Clare Campbell from Prickly Thistle said:   “I was delighted to work with the U.S. Consulate General on their tartan project.  Tartan is an expression of history, geography, and self-expression.  These designs are instantly recognizable as Scottish but help visually tell the story of the different ways America and Scotland are interlinked.  No matter the winner, Scotland will be welcoming a wonderful new tartan onto its national tapestry.”

Tartan aims to celebrate

The Consulate General’s team will seek to engage online audiences throughout the competition.  The winning tartan will form a distinctive part of the U.S. diplomatic presence in Edinburgh, symbolizing the deep connections between the United States and Scotland and boosting awareness of the Consulate General’s activities.   

U.S. Ambassador to the UK Jane Hartley said: “Tartan is embraced internationally as a symbol of Scotland, and we are thrilled to be one step closer to finally having an official tartan to call our own.  All three designs up for a vote are representative of the deep historic and contemporary ties between the United States and Scotland.  I hope our tartan will come to symbolize the continued growth of our relationship.”

U.S. Consul General Jack Hillmeyer added: “The United States has maintained a diplomatic presence in Scotland since 1798, when President John Adams appointed the first U.S. Consul.  Since then, the ties between our nations have grown wide and deep.  Millions of Americans claim Scottish ancestry, including dozens of U.S. Presidents.  Americans harbor a deep love of Scotland, and the United States boasts more than 1,000 Scottish associations and clubs.  Hundreds of thousands of Americans visit Scotland annually, in addition to the thousands more who choose to study in Scotland each year.  We are proud to be Scotland’s principal international trading partner, and our bonds continue to grow in new and emerging industries.  This tartan aims to celebrate all we have in common with each other.”

The tartan poll can be accessed via the Consulate’s @USAinScotland Twitter page or by visiting https://bit.ly/3fSUWhs. 

Billy Connolly’s highly-collection of limited-edition prints and stainless-steel sculptures Born on a Rainy Day is as humorous as his own comedy. It was on a rainy day in 2007 that Billy first put pen to paper. Taking refuge from the grey drizzle of Montreal, Canada, he entered an art shop with a twinkling curiosity and left with an armful of supplies and the urge to create. Back in his hotel room, his felt-tips and sketchbook formed a portal for his imagination. And over the subsequent years his drawings evolved into his debut fine art collection. Billy says” “Drawing has given me a new lease of life. I managed to get pictures together and people like them, which surprises me and amazes and delights me.”

Billy last performed in Australia in 2014, and formally retired from stand-up comedy in December 2020. In March 2022 he released his eighth collection of Born on a Rainy Day. Explaining his flexible approach, Billy says: “It’s lovely, the way people think you do it. People think I paint or draw things on purpose. I don’t, I just draw. And then as it goes on, it becomes obvious what it’s going to be (to me). And then I can think about it along those lines: a horse, a man or a balloon. That’s when I name it – at the end.” 

Extraordinary self-awareness and humanity

Billy’s art has been likened to the cave paintings of the Aurignacian period (40,000-25,000 BC), which are characterised by their linear, one-dimensional approach. Charmingly simplistic, his faceless figures possess an extraordinary self-awareness and humanity. Devoid of emotion or expression, their anonymity opens them up to individual interpretation, creating a unique bond with the viewer.

Harley Medcalf of Duet Group said: “My hope as the Producer of this event, is that we are successful in Canberra and Sydney, and can roll this out to other cities in 2024. Having presented Billy on eight tours over 35 years, I know first-hand how much he is loved in Australia. Working with Billy has been a highlight of my long career and my love and admiration of him personally the motivation for me to run the Exhibition”

Born on a Rainy Day will have an exclusive preview in Canberra:  Hyatt Canberra, November 19 and 20, 10am to 5pm. Premiere Season in Sydney: Hyatt Regency, 166 Sussex S, November 24 – December 23, 10am to 5pm. Free Entry, Original Art, Limited Edition Prints and Sculptures by Billy on sale at the Exhibition only. For more information see: www.bornonarainyday.com.au

Visitors to Dundee and Angus this autumn are being encouraged by VisitScotland to discover more of unique history and legends of the region as part of Year of Stories 2022. The Themed Year aims to spotlight, celebrate, and promote the wealth of stories inspired by, written, or created in Scotland.  Located within the V&A Dundee in the heart of the city’s waterfront development, VisitScotland Dundee iCentre is an important resource for visitors and local tourism businesses offering recommendations on things to see and do, helping with reservations and bookings and practical advice on travelling around the area.

Unique stories, legends and hidden gems

With more than 35 years of visitor experience between them, the team of friendly and knowledgeable local staff are also on hand to help visitors unearth some of the unique stories, legends and hidden gems in the region including:

Bruin the Dundee Polar Bear, Dundee High Street – Dundee’s status as the UK’s only UNESCO City of Design is an important draw for visitors with over 600 pieces of public art on offer. One of the newest sculptures depicts a famous incident from 1878 when a polar bear named Bruin escaped and ran through the city’s streets. It is said that the bear ran into the shop Messers J. Jamieson & Co, Clothier and Outfitters and after being distracted by its own reflection in one of the shop’s mirrors was recaptured. The sculpture can be found outside Maisie & Mac on the High Street which was previously Messers J. Jamieson & Co, Clothier and Outfitters.

Earl Beardie and Old Nick, Glamis Castle – celebrating its 650^th anniversary this year, Glamis Castle is famous for its links to the Royal Family but is also home to several ghost stories including the tale of Earl Beardie and Old Nick. It is said that while playing cards one Saturday night at the castle the Earl was reminded by a servant that it was close to midnight with gambling on the Sabbath a sacrilege. Despite this, the Earl continued to play and at the stroke of midnight a mysterious figure asked to join the game. It is reported the mystery man was the devil and having won the Earl’s soul in the game of cards, condemned him to until Doomsday for daring to play cards on the Sabbath. To this day sounds are reported to come from the West Tower of the castle – the alleged site of the card game.

Bamse, the Norwegian Navy Dog, Montrose Harbour – Bamse was a St Bernard dog that lived during the Second World War and was regular visitor to harbours at Montrose and Dundee onboard the Royal Norwegian Navy vessel Thorodd. He became well known for collecting his crewmates from local pubs while they were on shore leave and there are also accounts of Bamse breaking up brawls and saving a sailor from a robbery attack near Dundee Docks. He died in Montrose and buried with full military honours attended by hundreds of Norwegian soldiers, Allied servicemen and civilians. A statue dedicated to him can be found today overlooking the harbour in Montrose.

The Strathmartine Dragon, Dundee Murraygate – Dundee is a city of dragons from the city coat of arms to statue on Murraygate and spire on top of St Andrews Church. The connection is based on an old Dundee folk tale of a dragon that killed nine maidens at Pitempton on the outskirts of the city. Villagers tracked the dragon to the foot of Sidlaw Hills with a local man named Martin slaying the dragon. The name Strathmartine it is said was created by the villagers shouting “Strike, Martin!”. Alongside the Strathmartine Dragon statue on Murraygate, a stone marking the site where the dragon was slain can be found at the foot of the Sidlaw Hills near Bridgefoot.

Interesting history and folklore

Eleanor Mitchell, VisitScotland Visitor Services Advisor said: “There is more to Dundee than you think with the city and surrounding area full of interesting history and folklore.  Year of Stories 2022 presents the ideal opportunity for our visitor services advisors to lift the lid on some of our more unique characters and places. We would encourage locals and visitors alike to pop into our iCentre in the V&A Dundee for new suggestions on things to see and do in area this autumn. Between us we have over 35 years’ experience and love nothing more than regaling visitors with a local tale or two. We find it is often the more quirky and unusual stories that our visitors remember the most.”

The delivery of a programme of special events is an important part of the Year of Stories with over 300 taking place across the country.

For more information on Scotland’s Year of Stories, visit: www.visitscotland.com/about/themed-years/stories/

Thousands flocked to the dales for the City of Armadale’s annual kilt run and Highland Gathering on Sunday 9 October 2022. Minnawarra Park was filled with lasses, laddies and wee bairns ready to enjoy a full program of Scottish-themed events and activities.

“This year’s Highland Gathering and the Perth Kilt Run was a fantastic celebration of our City and community,” City of Armadale Mayor Ruth Butterfield said. “More than 25,000 people joined us throughout the day to witness a huge program of live action, including medieval battles, strength competitions, dog agility courses, music, highland dance and pipe bands. For some it was the chance to reconnect with their roots, for others it was the chance to don a kilt for a day and experience some Scottish culture at its best.”

For information see: www.perthkiltrun.com.au

Photos courtesy of the City of Armadale.

Some of Scotland’s most iconic, diverse and culturally significant sites are being promoted to domestic and international visitors with the launch of a dedicated VisitScotland marketing campaign, developed in collaboration with UNESCO and designation partners. The campaign will promote Scotland’s UNESCO Trail to potential visitors with the aim of encouraging them to discover more about the country’s 13 place-based designations included in the trail.

The world’s first UNESCO Trail was launched last year to connect the unique sites that include World Heritage Sites, Biospheres, Global Geoparks and Creative Cities to form a dedicated digital trail.  The trail was designed specifically to support the ambitions of the national strategy to make Scotland a world-leading responsible tourism destination by encouraging visitors to stay longer, visit all year round, make sustainable travel choices, explore more widely and at the right time of the year, and in turn, contribute to the sustainable quality of life of those communities surrounding the designated sites.

The world’s first ever UNESCO trail

Tourism Minister Ivan McKee said: “Last year I launched the world’s first ever UNESCO trail at the V&A in Dundee, which brings together some of Scotland’s most iconic, diverse and culturally significant sites.  I welcome the next phase of the trail and the opportunity to promote our unique UNESCO designations within the UK and Europe, to invite visitors on a cultural journey across the country to experience everything from history to science, music, design and literature to nature and cityscapes.  The trail helps visitors make responsible and sustainable choices through environmentally friendly travel and partnership with green accredited businesses. This will help support sustainable recovery and achieve our mission to grow the value and enhance the benefits of tourism across Scotland as set out in our tourism Strategy Scotland 2030.”

The full list of designations included in Scotland’s UNESCO Trail are the Galloway & Southern Ayrshire UNESCO Biosphere, Wester Ross UNESCO Biosphere, Dundee UNESCO City of Design, Edinburgh UNESCO City of Literature, Glasgow UNESCO City of Music, Shetland UNESCO Global Geopark, North West Highlands UNESCO Global Geopark, the Forth Bridge UNESCO World Heritage Site, Frontiers of the Roman Empire: Antonine Wall UNESCO World Heritage Site, New Lanark UNESCO World Heritage Site, Heart of Neolithic Orkney UNESCO World Heritage Site, Old and New Towns of Edinburgh UNESCO World Heritage Site, St Kilda World Heritage Site.

For more information, visit www.visitscotland.com/unesco-trail

Main photo: The Forth Bridge UNESCO World Heritage Site is one of 13 sites part of Scotland’s UNESCO Trail. Photo: VisitScotland/Kenny Lam.

On Friday 5^th August 2022, as part of the 75^th Annual Clan Macpherson Gathering, Clan Chief James Brodie Macpherson of Cluny and Blairgowrie invited a group of approximately 190 clansmen and women to ‘raise a glass’ to the future prosperity of the Clan Macpherson Museum as the latest chapter in the Museum’s illustrious history was written.   The Clan Macpherson Museum was opened in 1952 by the Chief’s grandmother. Unique then, the first ever clan museum in Scotland, it comprised just two rooms housing artefacts rescued from Cluny Castle following the sale of the estates in 1943,  Subsequently, the Museum has undergone two extensions. Most recently it has benefitted from a new roof and internal reconstruction of the displays. Over the years, the collection has expanded with acquisitions and donations, while the way the collection has been presented has also changed, whether in reality or virtually. 

An exciting innovation was the development of the Electronic Museum, presenting artefacts to those unable to visit the Museum. Future plans propose a new and interactive website, harnessing the best to match ambitions. In 2007, the Museum was awarded Visit Scotland’s four-star rating, an accolade proudly retained to this day, as well as a long-standing formal Accreditation by Museums Scotland.  Emerging from COVID 19 quarantine like a butterfly, the Museum abounds with colour and light, through interconnected galleries taking the visitor through different chapters of Clan history.  Familiar and traditional themes are presented to capture the imagination, and to inform and delight. In addition, a theatre area is provided, as well as a dedicated space for children, and an expanded shopping area which will focus on the work of local artists.

Reborn and reinvigorated

The Museum’s new Curator, Aila Schafer, is working to forge new and lasting relationships across the local and wider communities and building a network of volunteers to help manage the Museum. Since her arrival in April, she has been pleased to welcome many visitors to the Museum, some of whom have not visited in years. Over seventy years, many people have been, and continue to be involved in creating and maintaining the Museum. Funding bodies and government agencies from whom grants have been received, Friends and Guardians of the Museum, generous visitors, people from afar who have raised money, office bearers and committee members. And not just Macphersons – members of the local community and people much further afield have helped.

The Chief went on to commend Ewen SL MacPherson’s newly published and highly recommended book, The Clan Macpherson: Trials, Triumphs & Treasures, wherein reference is made to the Museum as a jewel in the Crown of Scotland.  The Chief concluded, “Clansmen and women, the people of Badenoch … friends and supporters of the Museum – as your Chief, I invite you to raise a glass to those that had the foresight to set up the Museum 70 years ago and those, donors, public agencies and contributors of time, energy and imagination, who have enabled it to reach this, the next stage of its development – Newtonmore’s Clan Macpherson Museum, reborn and reinvigorated, a jewel in the Crown of Scotland: the Museum.”

For further information about the Clan Macpherson Association, and the Museum contact your Branch Chairman at: www.clan-macpherson.org/branches.html, and visit www.clan-macpherson.org/museum

To order a copy of Ewen SL MacPherson’s highly recommended book, The Clan Macpherson: Trials, Triumphs & Treasures, contact the Museum Curator at [email protected]

Coming to ABC this month the Stuff The British Stole. Follow Marc Fennell on a globe-trotting, emotional quest for the truth as he unravels the twisted mysteries behind six iconic and priceless objects taken by the British Empire and meets those who want them back.

When King Charles has his Coronation next year he will face a choice: Will he sit on the Scottish people? Or at least, a potent and sacred symbol of them. British monarchs have long been crowned on a throne built around a sacred stone that was taken from Scottish kings. Marc investigates the strange story of one Christmas, where a group of four Scottish students snuck into Westminster Abbey to steal it back. What followed was a bonkers heist gone wrong that unveils a complex relationship within the United Kingdom itself – between England and Scotland.

The stone may look plain in its appearance but its history is wild. Marc travels to Glasgow to piece together this outrageous heist. He meets university students Emma Hill & Nico Matrecano. Together, they literally try to recreate the audacious robbery where a crucial part of royal history was snatched right under the noses of the British. Without going into too much detail: a very heavy barrel of scotch and a lot of masking tape is involved. Medieval Historian Lucy Dean takes Marc through a maze that leads right to the heart of British power and Scottish mythology.

Then the comedian Bruce Fummey takes Marc on a guided tour through the Scottish national identity. But all is revealed when Marc comes face to face with the actual mastermind (the late Ian Hamilton) of the entire plot to relieve the British of one of their most potent royal symbols. Ultimately, this is a crime that illuminates that the United Kingdom may not be quite as united as you might imagine.

Stoned airs Tuesday 2 November at 8pm on ABC TV and ABC iview.

Photo: Ian Hamilton (right) and his family.

The Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo, which made its highly anticipated return to the Edinburgh Castle Esplanade in late 2022 with its show Voices, will screen in Australian and New Zealand cinemas on November 19 and 20. Featuring over 900 performers, Voices is a spectacular combination of music, dance and military precision from some of the world’s leading armed forces and cultural performers from the UK, Mexico, The United States, Australia (Brisbane Boys College Pipes and Drums), New Zealand (the New Zealand Army Band, and The Pipes and Drums of Christchurch City), Switzerland, Germany and Canada.

This show is the first from the Tattoo’s new, and first non-military, Creative Director—New Zealand-born Michael Braithwaite—whose stellar background in entertainment includes producing Live Entertainment for the Jim Henson Company; working for Warner Brothers on two Harry Potter films and producing the Outdoor Festival for the London 2012 Olympics and Paralympics.  Voices is a celebration of expression which draws inspiration from people across the globe connecting to share their voices creatively through spoken word, song, music, and dance – languages common to all. Military acts continue to play a central role in the performance, with the Army acting as the lead service this year. Audiences will hear the legendary sound of the Massed Pipes and Drums, supported by Tattoo Pipes and Drums, Tattoo Dancers, Tattoo Fiddlers, and musicians from UK Military Regiments. 

Celebrated as the Musical Ambassadors of the Army, The United States Army Field Band make their Tattoo debut this year with a marching, military blend of traditional and contemporary music. The United States Air Force Honor Guard, the official ceremonial unit of the Air Force, returns to the Tattoo with its dynamic display of precision drill. Acts include the iconic The Top Secret Drum Corps; the colourful carnival energy of 100 performers from Banda Monumental de Mexico and the renowned Highland Divas, in their Tattoo debut, showcasing their eclectic repertoire including the Folk Music of Ireland, Scotland, and New Zealand. 2022 marks fans’ favourite New Zealand Army Band’s 7^th year performing with the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo in Edinburgh, and their 12^th appearance with the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo brand.

New-look Tattoo to cinema audiences

The full line up also includes: The Band of the Royal Regiment of Scotland, British Army Band Colchester, British Army Band Sandhurst, The Countess of Wessex’s String Orchestra, The Royal Highland Fusiliers, 2^nd Battalion The Royal Regiment of Scotland Pipes and Drums, The Black Watch, 3^rd Battalion The Royal Regiment of Scotland Pipes and Drums, The Highlanders, 4^th Battalion The Royal Regiment of Scotland Pipes and Drums, Combined Scottish Universities Officers’ Training Corps Pipes and Drums, Royal Air Force Pipes and Drums, The Crossed Swords Pipes and Drums, Paris Port Dover Pipes and Drums, The Pipes and Drums of Christchurch City, and Erskine Stewart’s Melville Schools Choir.

Janelle Mason, CinemaLive Director and Producer, said: “We’re really excited to bring this year’s new-look Tattoo to cinema audiences. Its vibrant energy, spectacular location and the theatricality of its dances, songs and music make for a perfect big-screen experience with cinema-quality sound. Voices will amaze and entertain both traditional lovers of the Tattoo and a brand-new audience.”

The Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo will screen in more than 120 cinemas around Australia, and more than 40 cinemas across New Zealand. Tickets are on sale now from cinema box offices and websites. To find a cinema near you see: www.cinemalive.com

Reader Giveaway:

The Scottish Banner is giving away 10 double passes for Australian readers and 6 double passes for New Zealand readers, courtesy of CinemaLive. To enter simply email: [email protected], via our website at www.scottishbanner.com/contact-us or post (sorry no telephone entries) our Sydney office, our full contacts can be found on page 2.

Prize details: Winners entitled to one double pass (two tickets) to The Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo 2022 in cinemas (tickets not valid for Gold Glass or other premium seating options). Winners will receive a letter confirming their prize, along with a Complimentary Admit Two pass, which they need to take to the participating cinema of their choice to exchange at the box office for actual tickets. Prize value: each double pass has a minimum value of $44.

The otherworldly magic of a traditional Hebridean Halloween was captured on camera by Margaret Fay Shaw, who amassed a huge collection of Gaelic song, poetry and images when she lived in the west of Scotland from the 1930s onwards. Margaret and her husband, Gaelic scholar John Lorne Campbell, bought the Isle of Canna in 1938, donating it to the Trust in 1981. Their collection, archived at Canna House, includes images and film of Halloween, or Samhain, festivities in South Uist. The roots of Halloween in Scotland go back to the Gaelic festival of Samhain.

‘There are lots of theories about the origins of Samhain, but the overriding idea is that it was a time when the boundary between this world and the other world could be crossed,’ says Canna House archivist and manager Fiona Mackenzie. “That was the origin of dressing up – you were disguising yourself from the spirits and trying to please them, so they’d look after you during winter. Costumes were usually made out of sheepskin or whatever was lying around the croft. Unravelled rope was used to make headpieces. In Margaret’s photos you can see someone dressed entirely in sheepskin. She wrote in the 1930s about watching a boy skin the head of a sheep, leaving the ears intact. He lifted it over his head and looked just like a sheep,’ continued Fiona.

All Hallows Eve

Fiona adds: “There’s a lot of food involved in Samhain too, both as a feast day for yourself but also to leave food out for the spirits.”

One tradition was to leave a place set at the table to welcome the souls of dead relatives. Food for Halloween (the word comes from the Scots shortening of All Hallows Eve) included a pudding shared by the family, with a silver sixpence, a thimble and a button hidden inside. There were also traditions to do with romance. You could foretell the future of two sweethearts by throwing two nuts into the fire. If they exploded at the same time, it was said ‘they were away together’.

Text and images courtesy of the National Trust for Scotland. For more information on the Trust or to help them protect Scotland’s heritage see: www.nts.org.uk

Main photo: © Canna House Photographic Collection.

The pioneering South of Scotland Golden Eagle Project has become the first in the UK to successfully translocate free-flying young golden eagles (aged between 6 months and 3 years) to boost a low population of this iconic bird. These new additions bring the total number of golden eagles in the south of Scotland to around 33 – the highest number recorded here in the last three centuries.

Taking a new research approach, under licence from NatureScot, the team leading the ground-breaking charity project revealed that they had successfully caught, transported and released seven golden eagles from the Outer Hebrides.

Ground-breaking project

The Outer Hebrides were selected as the source to boost the south of Scotland population because these Islands host one of the highest densities of golden eagles in Europe. The birds were released almost immediately on arrival in a secret location in the southern uplands of Scotland. The project team is continuing to monitor the birds’ progress to see if they settle and breed in the area. If they do, this could be a ground-breaking for the project.

Francesca Osowska, NatureScot’s Chief Executive, said: “This ground-breaking project has accomplished so much over just a few years, bringing a viable population of golden eagles back to south Scotland and inspiring other similar initiatives around the world. Particularly during the twin crises of climate emergency and biodiversity loss, it’s wonderful to see a success like this. Golden eagles are a vital part of Scotland’s wildlife, and we’re passionate about returning them to places where they used to thrive.  This is brilliant partnership working, and a great support for the local green economy.”

By: Ruth Schieferstein, Nikki Moran and Morvern French

In Scotland in 1563, the Protestant Church passed the Scottish Witchcraft Act, making it a crime to conduct witchcraft or consult with witches. The Act resulted in a century and a half of witch hunts throughout Scotland. Thousands of people died as the Witchcraft Act called for the death penalty for all offences. Not much is known about the fate of accused witches, but these are some of the stories of the people who were charged under the Witchcraft Act.

In 1560, Scotland’s parliament had made Protestantism the official religion, and morality was high on the agenda. The government and the Church wanted to enforce godliness among the people. They thought that the whole country would suffer if there were malevolent elements within it that they believed to be in league with the Devil. This is the setting in which the Witchcraft Act came into existence.

A pact with the Devil

People believed that the Devil left a mark on his followers when they made a pact with him. So-called ‘witch prickers’ were brought in to prick the accused person with needles numerous times and in intimate places in search of this mark. People believed that the mark would turn the area on the body invulnerable so it couldn’t bleed or feel pain. Often it would have been a birthmark, wart, mole or scar.

The aim of the torturous method was to get the accused to give in and confess to the alleged crimes. Other evidence used in trials were neighbours’ testimonies. These could come about after quarrels with other accused witches. They would often name the person that had crossed them as their ‘accomplices’ which could land the troubling neighbour in court as well.

Most of the accused and prosecuted were women. The popular belief was that women were ‘weak willed’ and their intellect inferior to that of men. This supposedly allowed the Devil to influence them more easily.

The Witchcraft Act in practice

Curiously, the Witchcraft Act is brief and does not clarify what a witch is and what constitutes witchcraft. Yet, people were able to identify witches within their communities and bring cases against them.

“…na maner of persoun nor persounis of quhatsumever estate, degre or conditioun thay be of tak upone hand in ony tymes heirefter to use ony maner of witchcraftis, sorsarie or necromancie…”

“…no manner of person or persons of whatsoever estate, degree or condition they be of take upon hand in any time hereafter to use any manner of witchcraft, sorcery or necromancy…”

Most accused witches were ordinary people but the one thing they were thought to have in common was ‘smeddum’ – spirit, mettle, resourcefulness and quarrelsomeness – qualities which went against the ideals of femininity.

A family of witches

In 1597, a whole family was embroiled in a witch hunt. It started with the mother, Johnnet Wischert, who faced accusations of witchcraft by her neighbours, servants and even her son-in-law. The accusations covered decades of believed wrongdoings, misfortune, and even described shapeshifting!

Her son, Thomas Leyis, also faced accusations which focussed on the witches’ sabbath: a gathering of witches in which they worshipped the Devil. Other witches, in their confessions, named him as the leader of a sabbath held at Aberdeen’s Mercat Cross. He was also branded as an active accomplice of his mother, and both were burned.

Johnnet’s husband, a stabler called John Leyis, and their three daughters, Elspet, Janet and Violet Leyis, also faced accusations. However, they were only convicted of associating with known witches – namely their own family members – and were banished from Aberdeen.

Why would people confess to practising witchcraft?

Investigators usually tried to get confessions from witches that would prove interaction with the Devil. This was of importance to the court. To get confessions witches were routinely tortured – often with sleep deprivation, but also with physical torture. In 1616, Elspeth Reoch was tried in Orkney as a witch. For a while, she was mute and suffered beatings from her brother to encourage her to speak again. In her confession, she claimed to have the ‘second sight’ and to have had interactions with fairies since she was 12 years old. She was found guilty and was consequently executed. Visiting wells and springs for healing is recorded in kirk session records, which deemed the practice against the teachings of the Protestant Church.

In 1623, an Issobell Haldane confessed that she had gone to the well of Ruthven to fetch water to use to wash a sick child. The child later died and Issobell admitted to consorting with fairies. She was imprisoned and interrogated at the Tolbooth in Perth, convicted of witchcraft and executed.

Innocent until found a witch

Issobell Fergussone, who was married and lived in Newbattle, was pricked by a professional witch pricker in July 1661. She maintained her innocence and denied all accusations against her. It seems that she asked to be pricked, probably to prove her innocence. However, the witch pricker was successful in finding the Devil’s mark and she subsequently confessed to a pact and interactions with the Devil. She was tried in August 1661 and eventually executed.

The fate of most accused witches is unknown. The Survey of Scottish Witchcraft estimates that about two-thirds were executed. Most witches were strangled and then their dead body was burned. Only a very small number are known to have been burned alive. But the experience of being interrogated, possibly tortured then executed would still have been extremely invasive, frightening and painful.

Formal repeal of the Witchcraft Act

The last prosecution for witchcraft was in 1727. In Dornoch Janet Horne’s daughter was allegedly “transformed into a pony and shod by the Devil, which made the girl ever after lame both in hands and feet”, and that Janet rode her daughter like a pony. Both were imprisoned, tried, and condemned, but the daughter escaped. Janet was the last person in the British Isles to be executed for witchcraft. By the eighteenth century, there was growing scepticism among the authorities about witchcraft, and prosecutions were less likely to result in execution.

Evidence which before had been essential for conviction – including pricking – was now considered unreliable. In 1736 the British parliament repealed both the Scottish Witchcraft Act of 1563 and the parallel English act. In 2022 Nicola Sturgeon, the First Minister, issued an apology for the historic persecution and execution of accused witches, describing it as “injustice on a colossal scale”. The Church of Scotland then also recognised the terrible harm caused to the thousands of people – mostly women – who had been accused.

Text and images courtesy of Historic Environment Scotland. Historic Environment Scotland (HES) is the lead public body established to investigate, care for and promote Scotland’s historic environment. For more details see: www.historicenvironment.scot

Ruth Schieferstein, Nikki Moran and Morvern French work together in the HES Cultural Resources Team, which researches and interprets the history and archaeology of Historic Environment Scotland’s properties in care. With the increasing attention on Scotland’s history of witchcraft accusations, and the recent anniversary of the Witchcraft Act on 4 June, we wanted to remember the thousands of people and their lives which the Act impacted.

Main photo: © University of Glasgow / Newes From Scotland 1597 (London: Bodley Head, 1924).

By: David C. Weinczok

The Sma’ Glen in Perthshire may be only two miles long, but it is big on stories. Its slopes and riverbed are lore-laden, telling of the legendary Fianna and the bones of the great bard, Ossian. I have come to think of it as something like a miniature Glencoe, albeit one much closer to the Central Belt at just twelve miles west of Perth. And yet, this proximity to Scotland’s major centres has not given the Sma’ Glen away – it remains very much a place that relatively few know of. These are just a few of its many tales.

The shadow of Rome

Let’s start at the southern edge of the Sma’ Glen. On a hillock near a modern road bridge once stood a Roman watchtower, part of the extensive line of defences monitoring the Highland passes. Nothing is now left of it except a slightly raised circular spot of heather-covered ground, but the fact that any trace at all is visible after 2,000 years is extraordinary. From the position where the watchtower stood, the hills of the Sma’ Glen and Strathbraan appear massive, their stone shoulders leaning so tightly over the floor of the glen that, were they to lean a little forward, it seems they could form a mountainous canopy.

The remnants of Rome were woven into later lore, as seen at the nearby Roman fort of Ardoch. By the Middle Ages the area’s Gaelic-speaking peoples attributed the slopes and ditches of the fort to the mighty Fianna, a race of heroic Irish giants led by Fionn mac Cumhaill (Finn MacCool). Ardoch was their camp, and one story tells of their downfall. One of their number, Garaidh, was left behind with the women while the rest went hunting, though the story notes that the women of the Fianna were no less formidable. Knowing how proud and vain Garaidh was of his long, golden hair, they waited until Garaidh fell asleep in the grass outside the fort.

Seeing their chance to teach him humility, they snuck out and silently coiled strands of his hair around large wooden pegs which they drove into the earth around him. Assembled on the fort’s wall with the gate shut, they all shouted. Garaidh leapt to his feet, tearing out huge clumps of his hair. Mad with pain, he piled timbers around the fort, paying no heed to the increasingly urgent protests of those inside. He set it all aflame, and none survived. Seeing smoke rising to the south, the Fianna returned to the scene of the massacre and slew Garaidh where he stood. This, it is said, is why the Fianna are no more, as there were no children born to them after Garaidh’s crime.

Two Stones, Two Stories

Within the Sma’ Glen itself is a large, upright stone not ten paces from the tarmac road. It is not a standing stone, but a test of strength. Called ‘The Saddlin’ Mare’ or ‘Saddlin’ the Mare’, the top of the stone, which stands about six feet high, is smoothed to a rounded, tapered point. Three smaller stones lay at its base – the first the size of a fist, the second weighing about 40 pounds, and the third clocking in at over 200 pounds. For two centuries at least, local men have taken up the challenge of trying to lift the heaviest stone, the ‘Saddle’, onto the top of the upright stone, the ‘Mare’. Such tests of strength were once commonplace throughout the Highlands, but this is one of very few known examples which survive, and are used, to this day. I managed the 40-pounder, but could barely get the big one to budge!

One of General Wade’s famous military roads ran from Crieff, once the site of a major cattle market that saw drovers descend upon the town from the furthest reaches of the Highlands, through the Sma’ Glen on to Aberfeldy and Kenmore on the banks of Loch Tay. Made of layers of rubble and compacted gravel, Wade’s Roads cut a clear swathe across the landscape, much like the Roman roads did in the south of Scotland over 1,500 years before. Very near Wade’s Road and not far north from The Saddlin’ Mare is another storied stone, Clach Ossian – ‘Ossian’s Stone’.

Ossian was the warrior-poet among the Fianna. The story goes that Wade’s road builders dislodged Clach Ossian to move it out of their way. Underneath it they discovered a vessel, Roman in appearance, containing burnt bones thought to be the remains of Ossian himself. Wade left a guardsman to watch over the stone and vessel, while the rest of the roadmen returned to their camp at Ardoch. In the night, the guardsman saw trails of fire descend from the hills and heard pipes howling laments through the air. These were the locals who had witnessed the desecration of their hallowed bard’s burial place. They took the vessel and buried it in a secret spot upon Dùn Mor, the site of an ancient hillfort attributed to the Fianna which towers over the Sma’ Glen. There the bones of Ossian allegedly remain to this day.

Lessons from the Sma’ Glen

In his definitive 1914 novel The New Road, the Scottish writer Neil Munro mused on the passing of time and legacy. Set in 1733 during the period between Jacobite risings when General Wade’s roadbuilding programme into the Highlands was well underway, the character Ninian Campbell observed: “And yet – and yet, this New Road will someday be the Old Road, too.”

These words proved true. Today, Wade’s Road through the Sma’ Glen is little more than an earthen impression, often sodden underfoot with the stonework cleared away, leaving shallow pools and faint tracks in their place. It took less than 300 years for Wade’s ‘New Road’ to become the ‘Old Road’ – indeed, a modern tarmac road runs alongside it. Before too long, in the grand scheme of things at least, it, too, will become the ‘Old Road’. Who is to say what shape the next ‘New Road’ will take? It’s all part of how history, and legends, take shape.

By: Shona Woodruff

This year, the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo made its spectacular return to the Edinburgh Castle Esplanade with a new show titled Voices. The shows, performed over the Fringe Festival month of August, marked a celebration of the power of expression with a combination of music, dance and military precision from hundreds of performers from as far afield as Canada, USA, Mexico, Switzerland, New Zealand and Australia.

This event marked the culmination of months of practice and logistical organisation for our own school, Brisbane Boys’ College. Although located on the other side of the world, our school embodies the spirit of Scotland, not just in the foundations of our Presbyterian and Methodist Church organisation, but in the evocative sounds of our own Pipe Band where ‘our Hunting MacLean tartan speaks of our origin, the drum line our heartbeat, and the bagpipes our voice’. Alongside many international performers, our troupe of 32 school students, old boys and accompanying staff took up living quarters in the Edinburgh University, Pollock Halls of Residence. Located beside Arthur’s Seat, the volcanic formation framing Edinburgh, our boys worked off their jetlag by practising each afternoon under vast oak trees in the University grounds.

Excellence

Two days later, we travelled to Dumbarton on the windy west coast to contest the Scottish Championships.  Under the backdrop of the iconic Dumbarton Rock and on the banks of the River Clyde, 111 pipe bands in all shades of tartan competed for the top spots. Our Number One Pipe Band (Division 4A), secured a creditable second place against a combination of adult and schoolboy bands while our Number Two Pipe Band (Division 4B) were delighted to come away with a fifth place in this demanding competition. These results provided our team with a surge of self- belief as we moved into an exacting week of rehearsals back at the local Redford army barracks and up at the famous Edinburgh Castle; all conducted under the ever-watchful eye of Major Gordon Rowan who accepted nothing less than excellence with any aspect of drill, turnout, piping or drumming. 

On the 5^th of August, the Tattoo performances began. Beneath the impressive colossus of the atmospherically lit Edinburgh Castle, our pipers and drummers marched under the castle’s ancient portcullis, across the drawbridge and past a set of flaming braziers into the floodlit arena to perform in front of an international audience of 8,000 people. Massed Pipes and Drums, UK Military Bands, Tattoo Pipes and Drums, Fiddlers and Dancers were joined by performers from the New Zealand Army Band, the United States Army Field Band, the United States Air Force Honor Guard Drill Team, the Top Secret Drum Corps, Banda Monumental De Mexico and The Highland Divas to wow the cheering crowds. This date also coincided with the Princess Royal’s birthday. Alongside the Chief Executive, Major General Buster Howes, and HRH Private Secretary, Charles Davies, our Voices Massed Pipes and Drums wished her many happy returns by playing a massed happy birthday at the ramparts of the castle. We were also honoured that she took the time to speak with some of our students.

Involvement in key championships

In addition to the Tattoo shows, our involvement in key championships continued and our haul of silverware grew to a final of nine trophies. On the 13^th of August, our pipe band, along with 145 bands from across the globe, competed for the top prize at the World Championships at Glasgow Green. 40,000 spectators made their way to Glasgow for the event including a bus full of our own loyal parent group sporting Hunting Maclean scarves, brollies, tailor-made Hunting Maclean pants and bright pink BBC Pipe Band caps.

This event marked the pinnacle of the pipe band competitions and was the culmination of months of dedicated practice from our boys under the indefatigable guidance of our brilliant director, Mr Stevie Stanley and his offsiders, Mr Liam Cox and Mr Aidan Scott. Our boys put on an impressive show and it was well worth the wait for our kilted staff, Mr Brett Jennings and Mr David Bell, who respectively collected trophies for our No 2 band who achieved 6^th in the world and our No 1 band who were placed 3^rd in the world. At the time of the trophy presentations, our boys had already returned to Edinburgh to play the first of two evening tattoo shows. These trophies were added to ones already won at the North Berwick Highland Games, on the 5^th August, where both bands achieved 1^st place in their respective grades and also won the drumming.  Additionally, our No1 band secured 1^st place in Division 4A and our No2 band secured 4^th place in Division 4B at the Bridge of Allan Highland Games on the 6^th August.

Special mention must be made of the contribution of our Pipe Major for the Worlds, Alisdair McLaren, who led our 4A band. Alisdair is an accomplished piper and a multiple world champion who was also Pipe Major of the Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo Pipes and Drums at the Tattoo. We are grateful to our mature old boys: Tim Rush, David Jerrard and Jim MacDonnell and our recent old boys; Blaise Campbell, Jack Woodward, Patrick Roach, Jordan Smith and Fergus MacDonnell for their dedicated service to the band. Similarly, the contributions of our contingent of Scots PGC boys including School Captain Nic McGahan, Rory MacFarlane, Josh Hullock, Fraser Collins, and Samuel Bourke were exceptional. These boys, plus the 4B pipe band, were ably led by Pipe Band Director, Sandy Dalziel. This success is made all the more remarkable since the boys were able to maintain a full academic program, being taught during the day by school staff: Ms Woodruff and Messrs. Fisher, Bell and Jennings. We are immensely proud of each and every one of our boys for sustaining such a high level of performance and commitment and for representing the College so well on a global stage.

A great sense of pride

It was with a great sense of pride and elation to witness our boys perform their last night at the Tattoo. From the top of the castle ramparts, the Lone Piper stood in solitary spotlight as the sounds of Sleep Dearie Sleep carried on the wind to the hushed audiences below. At the top of the Royal Mile, hundreds of people lined the street to witness the last flourish of tartan as the final bands marched around the corner and disappeared into the night.

A spectacular 28 shows had finally come to an end. It is fitting to close with a quote from Walking on the Waves, a song performed by the band Skipinnish and sung by Cammie Barnes. This musical piece featured nightly throughout the Tattoo and captured the essence of this iconic cultural event:

‘And it’s a game of sweet surrender

When there’s nothing left to say

And there are moments to remember

Once these days are long away’

We, as one of many of the teams to proudly represent our school and country, will treasure our memories from being a part of the Tattoo and look forward to climbing the steps to the castle in full kilt regalia, pipes and drums in hand, to do it all again one day soon.

Visit Inverness Loch Ness (VILN) has installed five new webcams along Loch Ness, making it easier for avid Nessie hunters to look out for the Loch Ness Monster and discover the destination from the comfort of their own home 365 days a year. The new cameras are located at Craigdarroch Hotel, Foyers; Drovers Lodge near Drumnadrochit; Shoreland Lodges Fort Augustus; Loch Ness Clansman Hotel; and Airanloch B&B, Lochend; and live feeds will be available to watch from VILN’s website.

Speaking about the webcams, Michael Golding, CEO at Visit Inverness Loch Ness, said: “We are delighted to be able to provide live footage of the beautiful Loch Ness every day of the year. For people all over the world to watch Loch Ness through the changing seasons and get a glimpse of the beautiful scenery and abundant wildlife is very special. Of course, the webcams will also give Nessie fans another way of spotting our elusive and most popular resident!”

A stunning view of Loch Ness every day

Karl Engel from Airanloch B&B added: “We are lucky enough to get a stunning view of Loch Ness every day and we never tire of it. To have one of the webcams here, knowing that it is being watched by potentially millions of people around the world is just amazing and we hope it inspires people to come and visit Inverness and Loch Ness.”

Chris Taylor, VisitScotland Regional Leadership Director, said: “Loch Ness is renowned the world over for its most elusive resident, Nessie, but these cameras will also give people from around the world the chance to see how beautiful the loch and its surrounds are, as well as possibly spotting some local wildlife – on or off the water! By having the opportunity to see Loch Ness from so many different viewpoints, more potential visitors will be inspired to travel to this beautiful part of the Highlands, to see for themselves why it is such a must-visit destination. In Scotland’s Year of Stories, it is great to see Visit Inverness Loch Ness offering people around the globe the chance to catch sight of Nessie – the subject of so many myths, tales and stories over the years.”

When viewing Loch Ness via the webcams, VILN recommends looking out for the following:

•Nessie

•Highland cows

•Birds such as golden eagles, osprey and ptarmigan

•Deer

•Different types of trees such as birch and cherry trees

•Northern Lights

•Cruise boats, kayaks, canal boats

To discover Loch Ness and Inverness for yourself, visit: www.visitinvernesslochness.com/live-stream

The Committee of Scottish Bankers, on behalf of the Scottish note issuing banks, Royal Bank of Scotland, Clydesdale Bank, and Bank of Scotland, has announced that all Scottish paper £20 and £50 notes are being withdrawn from circulation this month. Since 2015, Scottish issuing banks have been introducing Polymer notes into circulation. Polymer delivers significant benefits over paper, particularly when combined with state of the art security features which make the notes much harder to counterfeit. Polymer is also stronger than paper and so notes will last longer, remain in better condition and deliver environmental benefits. Scottish polymer notes now account for approx. 90 per cent of £20 and 50 per cent of £50 bank notes circulating in Scotland.

Polymer notes

A spokesperson for the CSCB confirmed: “Thanks to the work that the issuing banks have already undertaken to swap the older paper notes with the more secure, environmentally friendly polymer notes, the majority of £20 and £50 notes have already been replaced with polymer. The Scottish note issuing banks will continue to accept old paper based notes and there are currently no plans to change this.”

Issuing banks will continue to accept all Scottish notes from their own customers. These can be either deposited into their bank account or exchanged for polymer notes. Royal Bank of Scotland, Clydesdale and Bank of Scotland have also agreed that they will exchange their own paper £20 and £50 notes from non-customers up to the value of £250, provided that photographic I.D. is presented. Other banks, building societies and The Post Office may continue to accept and exchange Scottish paper notes after the 30^th September 2022. The withdrawal of Scottish paper notes coincides with the withdrawal of Bank of England £20 and £50 paper notes from circulation, which is also took place on 30^th September.