An archive of almost 800 historic tartan samples has been donated to National Museums Scotland. The textiles were produced by J&D Paton, one of the largest tartan manufacturers of the 19th and 20th centuries, and have been gifted to the nation by Stuart Paton, the great great grandson of the firm’s founder. A unique archive, the extensive J&D Paton collection has the scope to rewrite our understanding of tartan.
The samples record the firm’s production from its foundation in the 1820s to its closure in the 1960s, including rare examples of tartans woven for women’s fashion, textiles created for Queen Victoria and the Royal Family during the Highland revival, military fabrics supplied to the Scottish regiments and previously unrecorded clan tartans. The firm reached the height of its popularity in the late 19th century with prolific production continuing through both world wars. At its peak, J&D Paton employed around 500 people across four factory sites near Tillicoultry, in Stirlingshire. Family run for five generations, the company produced internationally-renowned tweeds and tartans, winning awards for fine fashion textiles sometimes woven through with silk.
Two University of Glasgow postgraduate students are helping to transform understanding of Scotland’s textile heritage through their research on a major new tartan acquisition by National Museums Scotland. To date, the students have helped catalogue more than 150 individual samples, laying vital groundwork for future research and public access. Student Layla Spurlock said: “It was a pleasure to spend the past semester working at National Museums Scotland on the J&D Paton Tartan collection. This collection is a vital resource to the country and the larger world. The work conducted can be used by researchers to rewrite our understanding of tartan history.”
Iconic textile
Each sample in the archive is unique, serving as a working record for the identification of clans, patterns and colours essential to the weaving process. This rich library provides a rare detailed picture of the history of mass manufacturing at a time when tartans were expanding into new fashions and global marketplaces. Meticulously cared for by the Paton family for over two hundred years, the collection will now be catalogued and made available for research at the National Museums Collection Centre in Edinburgh.
Dr Mhairi Maxwell, Curator of Modern & Contemporary History at National Museums Scotland said “Tartan is one of the most recognisable symbols of Scotland and the exceptional J&D Paton collection is of immense importance to ongoing research into the history of the iconic textile. We have only just begun to uncover of the stories woven through this remarkable archive and I’ve no doubt there are many discoveries waiting to be made, all thanks the generosity of Stuart Paton and his family.”
Stuart Paton, former Director of J&D Paton, added: “I am delighted to find a long-term home for the collection with National Museums Scotland. The donation is made in memory of my godfather Captain Paton a long-time chairman of the company, in the hopes it will become a valuable asset for those researching and learning about Scotland’s textile heritage for generations to come.”
National Museums Scotland holds one of the largest and most diverse tartan collections in the world spanning over three centuries of production history.
Discover more at: nms.ac.uk/discover-catalogue/tartan.
Main photo: University of Glasgow students Lily and Layla examine tartan samples. Photo: © Duncan McGlynn.
Do you enjoy our content?
Content on the Scottish Banner website remains free for users. Stories and events listed for the international Scottish community continue to be an important resource for many across the world. As advertising revenue remains a challenge, our readers can donate to help us produce unique Scottish content for global Scots. Every contribution counts and thank you for considering your support.
Support the Scottish Banner! To donate to assist with production of our publication and website visit: The Scottish Banner